VA -- Damascus, 5-10 November 2015

Five days in Damascus VA…

Why we came…

To bike the Virginia Creeper Trail and to hike the Appalachian Trail to Mount Rogers.  Plus, it was a good stop with a decent campground roughly half way between Shenandoah National Park and Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

The campground…

Laurel Creek RV Park was decent.  It’s a fairly new, no frills, small RV park, backed up against the scenic Laurel Creek on the east side of town.  The sites are adequate width and composed of dirt and crushed gravel.  It rained a bunch during our stay which made things a bit sloppy.  There were no bathrooms or laundry facilities.  Dirty clothes had to be washed in town.  Wi-fi worked great for us, likely because there was just one or two other RVs sharing the campground.  Cell phone was reliable 4G.  The two owners/managers were very welcoming and full of good information.  We would certainly stay there again, especially during the less busy “shoulder season”!

Damascus, population 814 and elevation 1,952 feet, was quiet and laid back during our stay.  Both the Virginia Creeper Trail and Appalachian Trail go through town.  There isn’t much to Damascus, but there are at least SIX bike shops!  They rent bikes and shuttle riders to higher spots on the trail so the cyclists can coast back to town with minimal effort. 

Laurel Creek and other nearby creeks have good trout fishing.  If we had stayed longer, we would have purchased fishing licenses and wet our lines. 

With the great trails and fishing, Damascus is our kind of place!

Laurel Creek is in our back yard…it has good trout fishing.  The RV park was nearly empty!

Adventures…

On 6 November we biked a section of the Virginia Creeper Trail…

The Virginia Creeper Trail, a hall of fame Rails to Trail, is 35 miles long.  Damascus is conveniently located near the middle of the trail.  We had planned to ride the entire trail on two separate rides, both starting from our home.  Unfortunately, soaking weather allowed us just one opportunity.

We started in Damascus and rode east towards the trail’s end at Whitetop, roughly 17 miles away and 1,500 feet higher.  We began our lengthy uphill ride around 9am and hardly saw anyone the first hour…it was beautiful and peaceful.  The deciduous trees had dropped nearly all of their leaves.  Rhododendrons were numerous…we imagined how they’d look full of purple flowers towards the end of each May.  There was also moss growing everywhere.  The various carpets of green constantly caught our eye.  The creek was really pretty too.  We stopped at many of the 22 bridges to enjoy the view.  I always had to look for trout and imagined myself fly-fishing the sweet runs and pools.  Even during brief sections when the trail left the river out of sight, we could still hear the creek.  Occasionally, the river sounded boisterous, alerting us to pretty cascades.  All of this was experienced nearly completely away from the sounds of civilization…it was great!

Sometime around 10am, we noticed a few cyclists cruise past us going the opposite direction.  They had been dropped off on rental bikes miles higher up the trail and were coasting back to Damascus.  For the rest of the day, there was a steady stream of similar bike riders consisting of all shapes, ages, and experience levels…it was cool.  Many of them noted that we were riding the tougher uphill direction and made encouraging comments that gave us brief spurts of extra energy.

We decided to stop at Green Cove, just a couple of miles short of our goal…we were whipped!  We were satisfied to make it 15 miles and had climbed roughly 1,300 feet.  We took a lengthy break and refueled our bodies.  Then it was time for the fun part…15 miles of downhill!

We pedaled most of the way back.  The bridge crossings were trickier at 15-20mph.  We had big smiles on our faces and felt like kids having a blast.  We also blew by slower folks, always alerting them with a hardy “on your left!”.  It took us less than an hour to ride back home.  It was a great ride!

   

Bike route on the Virginia Creeper Trail  /  Goofball!

See the bridge across Laurel Creek?

One of the 22 bridges we crossed

A pleasant spot in southern Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains

There are some beautiful spots along Laurel Creek

It was a great bike ride on a nice fall day!

Headed back into Damascus on the Virginia Creeper Trail

On 8 November we hiked near Mount Rogers…

Our goal was Mount Rogers, the highest spot in Virginia at 5,729 feet.  We chose to start at Grayson Highlands State Park to increase our odds of seeing the wild ponies.

The Crooked Road was in fact, quite crooked!  It took us an hour to drive about 35 miles to the State Park.  The scenery was pretty the entire route.  The numerous tight turns forced us to keep our speed low which allowed us to enjoy the drive.  Thankfully, there were few other vehicles.  It would have been a bit tricky to avoid oncoming cars on the hundreds of tight curves.

We were surprised to learn that there were roughly 150 wild ponies spread across the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and Grayson Highlands State Park.  The ponies were released in the area years ago to eat and help control invasive vegetation.  Not only has the program been fairly successful, but thousands of visitors enjoy the special opportunity to see the docile critters.  Click these links for more info about the ponies:  1 and 2.

It was chilly!  The temperature was around 40 degrees and the winds were 20mph…brrr.  We bundled up and hit the trail.  Mount Rogers was roughly 4.5 miles away, normally a 2 hour hike.

Just a mile up the trail, we spotted the first ponies!  There were about 15, all with different colors and patterns.  Arleen eagerly approached the first few while I stayed back and took pictures.  Arleen stopped within a few feet, and then the ponies carefully approached her.  They sniffed her hands, hoping that she had a snack to share.  I kept taking pictures until one of the nosy ponies snuck up and started sniffing around me.  They do occasionally bite, so I gave them space while fearless Arleen continued to press her luck!  The ponies behaved themselves and Arleen had some new friends.

We continued up the Appalachian Trail towards Mount Rogers.  Once we got to Wilburn Ridge, the trail crossed open meadows, known in the Appalachians as “balds”.  The views also opened up…it was incredible!  Visibility was good and our vista stretched nearly 360 degrees.  We went from one rock outcropping to the next, enjoying the view and taking a bunch of pictures. 

We had been walking slower than usual.  This section of the AT was quite rocky requiring to take extra time in our footing.  It was getting late so we decided to turn around short of our goal, Mount Rogers.  While taking a final scan of the incredible view from our turnaround spot, I noticed a few ponies about a half mile from us.

I guided us to the isolated herd of seven ponies…we had them all to ourselves!  Like the first time, we approached slowly and stopped a few feet from them.  A couple of the ponies stopped munching grass and slowly walked up to us, wondering if we had snacks.  Two of the ponies lingered, seemingly liking the attention…it was really cool!  One of them, a stallion would chase off the other ponies if they approached us reminding us that they are wild animals. 

We said goodbye to the ponies and headed back.  There were no stops until we approached the other herd of ponies.  We quickly said goodbye to them too and kept on moving.  During our last mile, we  rehashed the day and the extraordinary moments.  It was a special adventure!

   

Hike route towards Mount Rogers  /  On the Appalachian Trail again!

Okay…we’ll be careful!

   

The trail was rocky in places.  See the white “blazes”?  They indicate that we are on the Appalachian Trail.

Smile for the camera!

The ponies are very friendly

This is the second herd of ponies…it was just us and them!

Looking east over southern Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains

There are expansive views along the Wilburn Ridge Trail…looking south towards the Great Smoky Mountains

Spectacular!

Rain…

The weather was soggy so we only did two adventures.  We could have ignored the rain and played anyway, but it would not have been too enjoyable.  Besides, we are retired and can wait for the nice days!

Radar showed 1.5 inches to 2.5 inches of rain on 9 November.  We also got about an inch on 7 November.

Next…

We’ve been busy and are behind on the blogs:  Since Damascus we’ve been in Cherokee NC, Columbia SC, and Savannah GA.  We are currently at Fort Clinch State Park FL.  Our next couple of stops are Disney World and then Flamingo Bay, Everglades National Park in Florida.  Life is good!

Parting shots…

It’s official, we’ve been to Virginia!

(92,600)

VA -- Stanardsville, 29 Oct - 5 Nov 2015

One week in Stanardsville VA…

Why we came…

To explore Shenandoah National Park and Monticello.

The campground…

In the campground

Heavenly Acres Campground was excellent!  The sites were quite spacious and most had trees or shrubs that provided privacy.  The pads were gravel and a bit unlevel.  Satellite appeared to be available in most sites, but the dish would have to moved to avoid obstacles.  Cell phone signal was surprisingly decent 4G and wi-fi was only available up on the hill at the office.  We didn’t check out the other facilities, but everything appeared to be well maintained.  Though it was late in the season, there were quite few visitors during the weekend, but very few during the week.  Other than one obnoxious group of partying weekenders, it was totally peaceful.  We liked the location and we liked the campground…we’d gladly stay there again!

The best part was that our good friends, Bruce and Liz, joined us for a few days in their new Airstream.  The owner was able to set us up with facing camp spots.

Stanardsville VA, population 476 and elevation 663 feet, is at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains and just 10 miles from the Swift Run Gap entrance to Shenandoah National Park.  It’s a sleepy little town with very few stores and restaurants.  Ruckersville, seven miles southeast of Stanardsville, has a selection of restaurants, a big Walmart, and a couple of other grocery stores.

Comfortable at Heavenly Acres with Liz and Bruce

Adventures…

Note:  We found the following web page very helpful in planning our hikes:  Virginia Trail Guide

On 30 October we hiked to Hawksbill…

Hawksbill Peak, at 4,049 feet, is the highest spot in Shenandoah National Park.  That may not sound high to us Westerners, but when the valley on either side is 3,000 feet below, it provides a spectacular bird’s eye view!  Hawksbill was an obvious choice for our first Shenandoah hike.

It was chilly and windy so we appreciated the internal warmth generated by the uphill workout.  After reading so much about the Appalachian Trail (or AT), we were thrilled to be walking a section of it!  The views, mostly from impressive rock outcroppings, were incredible.  Unfortunately, the trees surrounding us had already shed their leaves, but there was an array of pretty fall colors spread below us.

We were so glad to experience this great hike with our good friends, Liz and Bruce!

Click here for the Virginia Trail Guide description of this hike.

   

Hike route to the highest peak in the Park  /  Bruce leaning on a direction post at a trail junction

A glorious view of the Shenandoah Valley along Skyline Drive

   

A white “blaze” that means we’re on the Appalachian Trail  /  Bruce and Liz overlooking the Shenandoah Valley

View towards the south from Hawksbill

   

Hefty me, Arleen, Bruce, and Liz near the top of a breezy Hawksbill

On 31 October we hiked the Big Run Loop…

We wanted a 5-6 mile long loop that descended in elevation amongst a canopy of brilliantly colored leaves.  The Big Run Loop proved to be the perfect choice!

We parked at the Doyles River Trail parking area, walked across Skyline Drive, and descended 1,500 feet.  As we dropped, more leaves clung to the trees, many of them showing off their amazing fall colors.  A thick, two or three inch layer of leaves covered the trail, hiding rocks and roots, making the footing a bit treacherous.  Our ankles twisted and turned in every direction and we nearly fell many times, but our hiking poles helped keep us upright. 

We crossed Big Run Creek and read the sign that relayed the fishing regulations.  There are trout in the creek and I didn’t have my fly rod!

Now we climbed…we had 1,500 feet to make up!  It was a steady ascent on a nice trail surrounded by the pretty woods.  It was also a good workout!  We met a nice couple from DC who were taking a rest.  They offered us some Halloween M&Ms which we gladly accepted…good energy food for an uphill hike!

We joined the Appalachian Trail near the top, and followed it for roughly a mile and half back to our vehicle.  The trail passes through the Doyles River Overlook, definitely the best view along the hike.

Click here for the Virginia Trail Guide description of this hike.

   

Big Run Loop hike route  /  Bruce posing at a stop along Skyline Drive

   

Kicking leaves off of the trail  /  Ferns growing out of a crack in the rock

   

A nice walk in the woods surrounded by an array of fall colors

Will she make it?!?

Looking east from Skyline Drive

On 1 November we hiked the Loft Mountain Loop…

We had breakfast with Bruce and Liz, said goodbye, and headed into Ruckersville for supplies.  It was a gray, dreary day and we planned to rest.

We were home around 1pm, but by 2pm, we were antsy to get into the woods.  We spontaneously decided to do a short afternoon hike in the Park. 

We wound our way south on Skyline Drive to the Loft Mountain Wayside.  The trail climbed steadily for about 500 feet to Loft Mountain.  We stopped at a rock outcropping and enjoyed the hazy view east towards Chesapeake Bay. 

Then we ambled pleasantly along the ridge and stopped at the top of the Discovery Trail.  This rock outcropping provided an excellent view west over the Shenandoah Valley.  The trees below us still clung to their pretty leaves.

We had this trail, and it seemed this section of Shenandoah National Park, all to ourselves.  This was an outstanding hike that we didn’t realize we would do when we woke up that morning…our spontaneity paid off again!

Click here for the Virginia Trail Guide description of this hike.

   

Loft Mountain Loop hike route  /  A white “blaze” on the Appalachian Trail

Looking east from Loft Mountain

Looking west

On 2 November we toured Monticello…

Monticello is Thomas Jefferson’s home near Charlottesville VA.  Work was started on the original 5,000 acre plantation in 1768 and continued until Jefferson’s death in 1826.  The history and beauty of the estate are amazing.

The plantation highlighted the lives of the slaves and indentured servants; how and where they lived, how they worked the fields, and how they served the Jefferson family and guests of Monticello.  Inside the home, many of Jefferson’s collections are preserved including his library and scientific instruments. One example is his thermometer he used for weather observations, he took each morning.  His bedroom was not designed for aesthetics but rather to be functional for the avid author, reader, and renaissance man.  His bed was in the wall between two rooms so he could just roll out and get busy.

We wandered around the garden and over to Jefferson’s grave which is actually a community plot.  In every direction was an incredible view of the Virginia countryside.  We can see why young Thomas selected that hill to build his future home.

About to tour Monticello…Thomas Jefferson’s home

   

View from the breezeway that goes through Monticello  /  Thomas Jefferson’s grave

Impressive with lovely flower garden

On 3 November we hiked to Mary’s Rock…

Our Mary, Arleen’s sister, loves rocks.  When we saw “Mary’s Rock” on the map, we had to check it out!

This was a fairly tough hike nearly entirely on the Appalachian Trail.  On the way out, it goes up, down, and steep up.  On the way back, it goes down, up, and finally down.  We climbed a total of roughly 1,400 feet.  Much of that was on a rocky trail covered in leaves.  We took deliberate, slow steps, doing our best to stay upright.  We were thankful for our poles again!

We hardly saw anyone between our start and the Appalachian Trail hut:  Byrd’s Nest #3.  So we were able to enjoy some incredible westerly views by ourselves.  We stopped at the sleep hut, read the various signs, and perused the hiker’s log as we enjoyed a snack.  As with any trail log, the entries varied in length, content, and language.  Some entries contained drawings, many of them funny and entertaining.  Most of the entries warned of a “resident bear” and extremely persistent mice.

We left the hut and started climbing again.  Another trail joined ours and we started to see more people.  We stayed mostly in the woods and didn’t have many picturesque views.  Then we popped out onto the main Mary’s Rock Trail.  It was like a highway, wide and well maintained.  And there were quite a few people.

Mary’s Rock is impressive.  The 360 degree view is even more impressive.  We hung out for awhile eating snacks and taking pictures.  It was our favorite spot in the Park!

Due to our slow pace on the way in, we were running later than we wanted.  We kicked it up a bit on the way back, and thankfully, made it back in one piece.

This was our favorite hike!

Click here for the Virginia Trail Guide description of this hike.

           

Hike route to Mary’s Rock  /  An impressive tree

   

Another white “blaze”…We’re on the AT again!  /  A perfect fall day

   

An Appalachian Trail Hut where hikers sleep  /  Each hut has a log book…there are always interesting notes!

   

A glorious view!

On 4 November we hiked the Big Flat Mountain Loop…

It was another glorious fall day making our final Shenandoah hike very enjoyable.

We wanted another roughly five mile loop hike and Big Flat Mountain was a good choice.  We started at the Loft Mountain Wayside, walked across Skyline Drive and up the closed campground road. 

The National Park amphitheater was in a wonderful spot with an expansive view.  If we camped there, we’d go to a bunch of Ranger talks! 

The trail circled the edge of Big Flat Mountain offering numerous great views.  Trails pin wheeled out from campsites to special spots everywhere.  If we camped in one of those sites, the individual outcroppings would feel like our own every morning and evening each time the sun put on its special show.  It would be a great place to camp!

We spotted our first bear poop!  Then within a few hundred yards, we spotted more.  Somehow we didn’t step in any of the 15 or so piles, some of them old and some of them very fresh.  We did, however, get quiet and slowed our pace, in an effort to see the culprit that left the natural fertilizer.  Unfortunately, we did not see any bears, though we did spot a nice whitetail buck.

We stopped again at the big outcropping at the top of the Discovery Trail.  That’s a view we’d never tire of!  We descended the other portion of the Discovery Trail.  It’s a pleasant walk through the woods, but the highlight is a huge rock overhang.  The rock is about 30 feet high, 75 feet long, and juts out over the trail a good 15 feet.  Not only was it cool to look at, and geologically interesting, but it would certainly provide good shelter from a storm.

We only saw three other people towards the beginning near the amphitheater.  Otherwise, we had the trail and seemingly the Park to ourselves…just the way we like it!  It was a good way to end our Shenandoah adventure.

Click here for the Virginia Trail Guide description of this hike.

   

Big Flat Mountain Loop route  /  A sweet spot for a National Park amphitheater

   

Outstanding views along the route  /  Huge overhanging rock

Rays of sun over the Blue Ridge Mountains

Next…

We spent five days in Damascus VA hiking and biking the nearby Appalachian Mountains.  Now we are in Cherokee NC exploring Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Our next stop is Sumter and Columbia, SC to visit friends.

Parting shots…

Following the Airstream to Stanardsville VA

A Ranger talk about bears.  There are roughly 400-600 bears spread throughout the Park area.

See the little black bear?  It was the only bear we saw.

(92,200)