Tuesday, May 15, 2018

WA -- Bainbridge and Whidbey Islands, 17-27 Apr 2018

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Bainbridge Island

Why we came…

To attend Seattle Mariners baseball games.

The campground…

The Clearwater Casino Resort RV Park was convenient, but not peaceful.  It’s the closest RV park with full hook-ups to Bainbridge and the ferry.  The new RV park is located in back of the casino and on a large paved parking lot.  There are 12 back-in sites and 7 pull-through sites that are decent sized, well marked, and have brand new utilities.  We were in a back-in site and they sloped both left/right and forward/back making it a bit challenging to get level.  A line of tall trees blocks satellite in the back-in sites, but not the pull-throughs.  However, the trees did a good job screening strong winds off the water.  Slivers of water were visible through the trees.  Without the trees, there would be a great view.  Wi-fi was very good and we had a reliable 2 bar LTE Verizon signal.  There were no bathrooms dedicated to the RV park, but of course there were many in the casino.  Because we only stayed three nights, we never asked about laundry facilities.

The casino provides a free shuttle back and forth to the Bainbridge/Seattle Ferry…one of the main reasons we chose to stay there. The shuttle was definitely convenient and reliable.  It was nice to leave the truck parked.

Unfortunately, the place was noisy 24 hours a day.  The casino’s “shipping and receiving” area is in the back with the RV park.  A couple of semi-trucks beep beep beeped and idled their engines for lengthy periods at odd times of the day.  During our first night between 3am and 4am, two hard workers fired up a very loud high pressure washer and cleaned some sort of racks, likely from the casino kitchen.  Around sunset our second night, shenanigans in the casino prompted an impressive response from the police.  Around 2:30am our final night, a few knuckleheads yelled at each other in the parking lot and then stormed off on their very loud motorcycles.  But traffic from busy Route 305 was consistently the most loud and annoying 24 hours a day.  Roaring semi-trucks blew by at all hours and rumbled as they crossed the Agate Passage Bridge.  Inconsiderate music connoisseurs blasted their tunes from early until late.  Earplugs only marginally helped.  After being at the tranquil John Wayne Waterfront Resort all winter, this was hard to deal with.  If you want peace and a good night’s sleep, stay away from Clearwater Casino Resort RV Park!

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We liked the convenience of Clearwater Casino Resort RV Park, but it was very noisy and we were uncomfortable.  Agate Passage is behind us.  In front of us is the back of the casino and a multi-level garage.

If the goal is to explore Bainbridge Island and access the ferry, here are two other options:

1.  Eagle Tree RV Park.  It has full hook-ups, but tight roads and tight spaces.  Reviews mostly just give it average ratings.  It’s eight and half miles from the ferry terminal and is right off of noisy and busy Route 305.

2.  Fay Bainbridge County Park.  It has 19 sites with water and electric a couple of hundred feet from the beach.  There is no dump station.   It gets good reviews.  It’s a circuitous six and a half mile drive to the ferry terminal and should be much quieter than the other options.

Nearby towns…

The casino is about two miles south of Suquamish WA, population 4,140.  We never ventured into town and don’t know much about it.

Bainbridge, population 23,025, is about eight miles south of the casino.  It’s a quirky community with lots of character.  It’s fun a place to walk around, duck into the shops, and sample various restaurants.

Poulsbo, population ~10,000, is five miles west and Bremerton, population ~40,000, is a 25 mile drive to the southwest.  Between them is an abundant selection of stores, restaurants, and services.  If you can’t find something in these towns, then Seattle is an easy ferry ride away from either Bremerton or Bainbridge Island.

Bainbridge Island aerial pic

Bainbridge with Seattle in the distance (Pic barrowed from   Pacific Northwest Yacht Charters)

Adventures…

Seattle Mariners baseball games…

The primary reason we stayed near Bainbridge Island was to go to Seattle Mariners Baseball games. We had tickets for an evening game and an afternoon game.

We were thankful to Deb for having shown Arleen the Seattle public transportation ropes. She also told us about the free shuttle service at Clearwater Casino.

The shuttle service ran in sync with the Bainbridge to Seattle ferry. At least an hour before the game, we hopped on the casino shuttle to the Bainbridge ferry terminal. Then we hopped on the ferry and enjoyed the scenic ride to Seattle. From the Seattle ferry terminal it was only a mile walk to Safeco Field through a historic part of Seattle.

Now in most huge cities like Seattle, we are a bit on edge. But, the nice thing about going to a sporting event is you are always walking with other fans. Your comradery with fellow supporters breaks all barriers and you are instantly friends!

It felt good to be back at Safeco Field. Arleen and I attended several games when we were stationed at nearby McChord AFB/Ft Lewis from ’07-’11. We tried a few of their new food offerings; frito pie and nachos. Both were delicious.

The games did not go our way. They lost both to last year’s World Series champs, the team whose name we will not speak. The Mariners turned an interesting triple play but otherwise their defense was sloppy and their offense never showed up.

After the day game, we made our way to Pikes Place Market. The Seattle landmark, opened August 17, 1907, is one of the oldest continuously operated public farmers' markets in the United States. We always enjoy the vibrant colors of the flowers, fresh vegetables, and fish.

We found a booth at the Athenian Seafood Restaurant with a great view of the waterfront. I have to make a note to have the Avocado Three Cheese Tuna Melt when we go back there. If it was good enough for Tom Hanks in “Sleepless in Seattle”, it’s good enough for me!

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Walk route from the ferry terminal to Safeco Field, then to Pikes Place Market, and then back to the ferry terminal  /  Robinson Cano waiting for some action at second base

An interesting view of the Space Needle shortly after leaving Bainbridge

It’s a bit blustery on the bow!

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Approaching Seattle

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Watch out MLB, here comes Arleen!  /  Safeco Field, home of the Seattle Mariners (pic barrowed from Trip Advisor)

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Pike Place Market always has brilliant colored flowers  /  We had a scrumptious dinner at the Athenian

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Seattle sparkles at night

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Whidbey Island

Why we came…

To check out the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival and it’s convenient to get on the Alaska Ferry in Bellingham WA.

The campground…

Cliffside RV Park on Whidbey Island Naval Air Station is fantastic!  It rates near the top of all campgrounds we’ve visited.  The facilities were completely renovated in 2012 and are meticulously maintained.  There are flower beds everywhere.  It’s Ken’s passion.  He’s been taking care of them for 12 years! 

The level paved sites are huge and easily accommodate big rigs and an additional vehicle.  We had full hook-ups, decent wi-fi, and a spotty Verizon cell phone signal.  Satellite works from most of the sites.  Both loops have their own bath house and laundry room.  Nearly every site has an incredible view of the ocean. 

The RV park sits near the middle of a great walking path that’s over three miles long.  We saw eagles and other interesting birds each time we walked.  The snow-covered Olympic Mountains loom to the southwest.  Vancouver Island is just across the Strait to the west.  And multiple San Juan Islands are dotted to the northwest.  There is ample beach access too.  One of the few negatives is the wind.  30-60mph gales are common with each storm that blows through.  Navy jets often roared overhead with things quieting around 11pm each night.

It takes an exceptional campground in an exceptional location to keep us content and happy.  Cliffside RV Park is a jewel.  We would gladly return!

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Cliffside RV Park was completely renovated in 2012  /  There are flower beds everywhere

Cliffside RV Park and the Olympic Mountains in the distance

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Many of the sites have incredible views. 

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A P-3 and an EA-18 flying over us

What a sweet place to watch sunsets!

Nearby towns…

Oak Harbor, population ~23,000, is five miles southeast of the RV park.  It has a Walmart, Safeway, Home Depot and other stores.  For military folks, there is a decent Navy Exchange and Commissary.  Oak Harbor also has quite a few restaurants and services.

Oak Harbor and North Cascades

Oak Harbor and the North Cascade Mountains (Pic barrowed from Pacific Northwest Yacht Charters)

Adventures…

Move day…

Our move from Suquamish to Whidbey Island was only two hours long but it included a ferry ride from Port Townsend to Coupeville. This was our second time taking our little home on a ferry but we are still nervous about it.

To ease our anxiety, first, we made the reservations as soon as Washington State Ferries would allow (which was 1 March for us). There are semi-trucks that travel that route regularly and they fill up the few oversized slots. You can cancel up to 5pm the day prior to travel without penalty so making the reservation is good insurance.

The week prior to our truck and trailer voyage, we took the same ferry route to meet Ann and Mike for lunch. Finally, we left early enough so that we were at the ferry a good hour early just in case we were delayed on the road.

The ferry dock men were very good about directing us exactly where to go. They tucked us in closely behind a fifth wheel and next to a big semi. We went top side to enjoy the ride across Puget Sound which was rolling with swells. At times we struggled to keep our balance as we walked around deck.

It all went smoothly. It helped build our confidence for putting our roving home on the Alaska Ferry in a week’s time.

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Port Townsend to Coupeville on Whidbey Island.  Make reservations if driving, especially with an RV!

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Waiting for the ferry  /  Packed in like sardines

Walking the base trail…

Seaview Trail is part of the Navy’s trail system on Whidbey. The paved portion starts near the gym, runs over to the bluff and along it, passing a few administrative buildings, the base flags, and a Bald Eagle’s nest before climbing a hill and dropping down to the Cliffside RV Park. Headed south from the RV Park, Seaview Trail enters the woods and turns into a hard packed dirt but still wide trail.

It was very pleasant and convenient. We just stepped out of our little home and we were on the trail. We did portions of it four to five times a day.

We spent a lot of time monitoring the local eagle family and looking out over the Salish Sea towards the Olympic range to the south and the San Juan Islands to the northwest. We always expected to see whales but didn’t spot any.  It was also cool to watch the jets take off.  The deafening roar is the “sound of freedom” to us military folks!

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The Seaview Trail on Whidbey Island NAS  /  Map of run routes on base

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Lots of fun signs

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Lots of whimsical stuff near the campground

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Flags and Mount Baker, 10,781 feet high  /  The flags, the eagle tree, and the Olympic Mountains

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Arleen taking pics of the eagle  /  Thanks for posing!  /  Adult eagle telling young eagle to back off

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A covered bridge along the trail  /  Lots of bunnies mean plenty of snacks for the eagles

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A P-3 Orion flying towards Mount Baker

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An EA-18 Growler taking off at Whidbey Island NAS

Skagit Valley Tulip Festival…

The Skagit Valley Tulip Festival is huge! “It is one of the destination events for the Pacific Northwest, held from April 1-30, celebrating millions of tulips bursting into bloom. As with all things governed by Mother Nature, the tulips bloom according to their own schedule sometime during the festival.”

We were in the area for the 35th Annual Festival. The first few weeks of April were wet and cold. So the peak this year was not till the 3rd week when the weather warmed and dried out…perfect timing for us!

Every year hundreds of thousands of people attend the festival (it is “designed as a driving tour” so it is hard to get an accurate count) from all 50 states and from 93 foreign countries (in 2016). So our plan was to visit during the week and in the morning to avoid the crowds. However, the beautiful weather and recent press touting the peak bloom brought out the masses!

“The fields of tulips are scattered throughout the Skagit Valley as are the many events and activities that comprise the festival. The tulip fields are the crops of RoozenGaarde/Washington Bulb Co., Inc. and Tulip Town. Due to crop rotation, the fields are in different locations each year.”

We visited the RoozenGaarde farm. “RoozenGaarde was established in 1985. The Roozen family business of growing Tulips, Daffodils and Irises is the largest in the world, covering Skagit Valley with more than 1000 acres of field blooms and 16 acres of greenhouses. Each fall, the 3 acre show garden is planted with around three hundred thousand spring-flowering bulbs, providing a gorgeous display of color during the early weeks of spring.”

First, we visited the show garden that has an actual Dutch windmill. Next we walked out and around the acres of tulip fields. It is absolutely spectacular and is the closest thing we have seen to the tulip fields in Holland.

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The tulips were peaking at Roozen Gaarde and the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival

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Just being silly

Deception Pass State Park

Arleen knows after hanging out with me for 20 years, that the day may not go as planned. The idea had been to visit the tulip fields and then return home.

However, we were both blown away when we crossed the Deception Pass Bridge! We could see the aqua colored current of Puget Sound rushing and swirling hundreds of feet below the bridge.

“The iconic bridge was built in 1935 spanning 1,487 feet, consisting of 2 steel archways and an island in the middle.”

On our return, we pulled into the overlook parking area to just get a quick picture out on the bridge. However, as we made our way down the stairs and under the highway, we spied a trail in the woods. Without any further discussion, we set out on the Goose Rock Perimeter Trail.

It was a soft, needle covered trail winding through a Douglas fir and Red Cedar forest. It meandered around an old moraine to the east of the highway and into Cornet Bay. At times the trail took us to the water’s edge.

On the backside of the moraine ridge, we climbed 500 feet up steep switchbacks to Goose Rock. From up here, on a “bald” across large glacial boulders, we had spectacular views of Mount Baker, the Olympic Mountains, and the San Juan Islands.

After we finished the two mile loop hike, we finally went out on the bridge and got our photos of Similk Bay back-dropped by Mount Baker.

Some of our favorite memories are from adventures that were spontaneous.

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Hike route on the Goose Rock Perimeter Tail in Deception Pass State Park  /  Resting on a big old downed tree

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It’s a nice trail, but steep in places  /  Best view of Mount Baker along the trail

The view south from Goose Rock.  Whidbey Island NAS is center left & Olympic Mountains are in the distance.

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The outgoing tide flowing through Deception Pass.  Mount Baker is in distance.

Next…

We were on the Alaska Ferry for three days and are now spending two weeks in Juneau, Alaska!  Then we will hop back on the ferry and go to Haines, Alaska.  We’ll tour “The Last Frontier” until roughly 1 October.

Parting shots…

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The weather was nearly perfect.  We kept our door open most of the time  /  An eagle keeping watch above our little home  /  We left this big morel alone.  That’s always hard for us!

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