Mud-on-the-tires Full-time RV Adventure: FL -- Chokoloskee, 3-28 February 2016

Nearly four weeks in Chokoloskee FL…

Why we came…

To explore Everglades National Park, the 10,000 Islands, and Big Cyprus National Preserve.

An evening paddle in the 10,000 Islands and Everglades National Park

The campground…

Outdoor Resorts of Chokoloskee was excellent. The spacious camp sites are privately owned. If the owners are not occupying their sites, they can rent them to transients, like us. Everyone was very friendly and welcomed us with open arms. They are also very social and eagerly attend many social functions. The activity schedule is varied and quite busy. These folks stay active!

Jeff and Sally, our neighbors / Linda and Lindall supplied us fresh trout and nearly adopted us!

The sites are all landscaped and meticulously maintained. They are paved and level with a small shed. There are three swimming pools, a decent workout room, a clubhouse, two boat launches, and two bath houses, each with nice laundry facilities. And, unlike our last two RV parks, the laundry was very reasonably priced! The Verizon cell phone signal was weak with sporadic 3G. Wi-fi was fast and usually reliable. Cable TV was available from all sites and satellite would work from most.

We liked the resort a bunch. In fact, we even got information about buying a site!

RV sites with boat slips line “the lake”

Arleen hitting a tennis ball at me / Hot tub and pool across the street from our home

Chokoloskee, population 359, was quaint and quiet. It’s mostly a vacation community and a good chunk of the island dwellers were not around during our stay. Shortly after the sun went down each night, the roads emptied as the tourists and fishermen left. There is one restaurant on the island, a small post office, the historic Smallwood’s Store, and not much else.

Aerial view of Chokoloskee and a few of the 10,000 Islands

Everglades City, population 400, is also mostly a vacation community. It was a little busier but still quiet, especially compared to the Keys. Compared to Chokoloskee, there are a few more restaurants, a small grocery store, a reasonably priced gas station, an Everglades National Park visitor center, a small museum, fishing charters, airboat tour guides, and a few other things.

Naples, roughly 35 miles to the northwest, had a plethora of grocery stores, restaurants, and many other conveniences. Though it’s very busy and quite congested, it’s a nice clean city.

Adventures…

On 5 February we went to the Big Cypress National Preserve visitor center…

We had to go to Naples for medical lab work. It was a great excuse to explore some of the area on the way.

We stopped first at the Big Cypress National Preserve visitor center and I got a sticker and stamp for my passport book. Then we watched the movie that explained the establishment of Big Cypress in 1974. It is basically a 729,000 acre swamp.

Next, we took a short walk on a boardwalk behind the center to look for manatees and caught a quick glimpse of one. We talked to the rangers and they recommended Big Cypress Bend boardwalk as a place to look for orchids.

We drove up the road a few miles and thoroughly enjoyed the one and a quarter mile stroll into a corner of the Fakahatchee Strand. We did not spot any orchids but we learned about cypress knees and strangler figs.

Wrestling a gator / Posing near a strangler fig along the Big Cypress Bend boardwalk

On 10 February we did our first kayak adventure into the 10,000 Islands…

We had been in Chokoloskee for a week and had not been out kayaking yet because of a series of weather fronts and continual small boat advisories. It was time!

During one of my walks around town, I had noted a perfect launch point at the historic Smallwood store. They charged us $20 to launch our kayaks and park our truck but it saved us a mile of paddling.

We headed across the channel and entered the 10,000 Islands for the first time! It was a little tough entering as the incoming tide flooded through the narrow island channels like rivers.

We paddled hard to an eddy where we could hold and rest. It was easy to cast into the current where the fish should have been feeding on the advancing nutrients. We also explored a few small channels but did not have any luck. Though we did not catch any fish we did see numerous Brown and White Pelicans, Ibises, and Egrets.

As we weaved our way around the maze of islands, we were able to ride the tide. It was so much easier on the shoulders. We had made so many twists and turns back in the mangrove islands, I was surprised when we popped out and saw the store across the channel. I was very glad that Shawn was tracking us on his GPS app. Fishing back in the islands requires a good map and navigational skills or you could easily get lost.

Kayak from the Smallwood Store into the 10,000 Islands / Fishing around the mangrove islands

The historic Smallwood Store seen from the islands

On 11 February we kayaked south into the 10,000 Islands…

After our first day exploring the islands, we were anxious to get back out. We launched the very next morning.

This time we launched from the boat ramp right at the RV Resort. It would be the first time of many. We enjoyed the convenience of driving a few blocks and being able to park right at the boat area. If we could have left the kayaks at or near the ramp, it would have been perfect.

This time we headed southeast towards the Lopez River with a strong northerly tail wind. It was over a mile before we entered the islands.

We wound in and around several islands and channels. I kept very close to Shawn. I was afraid if I dawdled, I would not find my way out! Again, the tide was coming in and we fished the rising currents. Finally, Shawn hooked a sympathy sea trout.

When we popped out, the northerly winds had abated so we were able to head directly back rather than hugging the east coast and adding an additional mile per the original plan. We love it when a forecast that is wrong works in our favor.

Kayak route south from the RV park / Shawn Casting his lure

A small seatrout

Headed back to Chokoloskee and the RV park

On 12 February we kayaked west from the Everglades NP visitor center…

The forecast held promise of another glorious paddling day. For the third day in a row, we headed out with our kayaks.

This time we parked at the National Park visitor center in Everglades city. They offer free use of their concessioner launch site. We appreciated this warning:

“Ten Thousand Islands, have many oyster reefs and sandbars. Safely exploring this region, while protecting the sensitive underwater habitats, requires the ability to "read the water". Shallow areas are not always marked, especially in the area between Flamingo and Everglades City. Knowing the draft (depth) and limits of your boat is critical, as is the ability to read and utilize nautical charts.”

We headed out excited, because today we were looking for the oyster bars. Though we needed to use caution around them (the sharp edges could puncture our kayaks), they provide ample nutrients and fish often hang out near them to feed.

Once, across the channel, we were able to climb out of the kayaks, leash them to our belt loops, and walk around on the lovely sand bars. Though these sparse bars are only accessible during low tide, with proper timing it is a wonderful treat to be able to get out of our kayaks and stretch. Most of the area is mud and seagrass that you just sink into.

After no fishing success, we wound in and around several islands. We really enjoyed the peace and quiet while we toured this special place all by ourselves.

Kayak route from the Everglades NP visitor center / An ibis flying out of the mangroves

Fishing from a sandbar

On 16 February we headed south into the 10,000 Islands…

Fishing had been slow for us, but based on conversations with others, no one was doing very well. Some folks caught a few sea trout, but “nothing like recent years”. This was due to the cooler waters and there was talk of too much fresh water spilling into the glades from Lake Okeechobee due to the unusual heavy winter rains. We hoped our luck would change!

We decided to mix it up and we launched at high tide from the resort. The water was a bit rough with 15-20mph winds, so it took us some effort to cross the channel. We could see the oyster bars a few feet beneath us instead of poking above the surface like islands. We were happy to enter the shallower and protected “no motor zone”.

We entered the islands and fought the exiting tide at every turn. We made our way to a welcome sand bar and wade fished about an hour without any luck. By the time we made our way back to exit the islands, the outgoing tide revealed a bunch of oyster bars spread across the open bay.

We had to carefully pick our way around the islands made of knife-edged oysters. Fortunately, we never heard the horrid crunching sound of running aground.

Kayak route south into the 10,000 Islands / Cormorants always keep a close eye on us

Wading on a sandbar in the 10,000 Islands

On 17 February we kayaked up the Turner River…

Bob was staying the winter in the RV across from us. He recently bought a used kayak and had been taking short half mile excursions, never straying too far from the security of Chokoloskee. He jumped at the offer on a kayak adventure with us.

We launched together from resort and headed east to the Turner River. Bob was happy after we had crossed the half mile wide channel in fifteen minutes with minimal effort. And there in the mouth of the Turner River were a few dolphins that appeared to be celebrating his success!

We headed up the large, slow moving river carefully staying out of the main channel where the fishing and tour boats sped past and kicked up some big wakes. Thankfully, the incoming tide assisted us in the upstream paddle.

After about two miles we took a left and paddled up a small creek. The creek narrowed with mangroves which blocked the 15-20mph winds. The creek was also fairly shallow which prevented most motor boats from exploring it. The half mile paddle was very pleasant. We excited the little creek into our goal: a 20 acre lagoon (or brackish lake).

The three of us fished for a while and did not have any luck. However, as I was trolling back across the lake for the last time, my rod bent over. As I reeled, I could not feel the shake of a fish head, but it was not stuck like a snag. What was it? I was quite shocked when I saw a good sized blue crab clinging to my shrimp. I thought for a second about trying to get it into the kayak for a picture, but I was wearing sandals with ten exposed toes! Well, it took a good look at me, chomped off the end of the shrimp and fell back in the water.

Back at the mouth of Turner River, Shawn and I started fishing the oyster bars. Bob was worn out so he headed back across the channel by himself but with more confidence.

Shawn caught the first of several sea trout over a big oyster bar in the main channel. The 20 inch long trout aggressively smacked his top-water lure…he was very excited! (It ended up being the biggest trout that we caught.)

We then moved to just south of the main river channel. The area had more mangrove islands and a bunch of oyster bars. It was sheltered from the boat wakes, winds, and had less current. Here we caught blue runners, ladyfish, and a few small trout. It was so much fun after so many days of being skunked. To top it off, while we fished we could see and hear dolphins feeding in the main channel.

I headed back to the boat launch while Shawn went to try a few spots around “structure” on the main island. When he arrived, he excitedly showed me a picture of a small snook! He had hooked four of them!

He was top-water fishing when the first one exploded on his lure and nearly jumped into his kayak! The 30+ inch long snook looked him in the eye, dove deep and got off. Just a couple of casts later, a nearly identical fish did the same thing, but this time the line broke after a few exciting minutes. The next two snook were only about 15 inches long, but he was so excited to see them hammer his big top-water lure. It was our best fishing day by far! Shawn had finally caught one of his wish list fish: the mighty snook.

Kayak route up the Turner River / Dolphins swam within 30 feet of us!

Arleen and Bob paddling across the bay to the Turner River (RV park is in the background)

Fishing an oyster bar at the mouth of the Turner River as the tide goes out

A 20 inch long seatrout / A small snook…the first one! Shawn hooked 2 big ones before he landed this one

On 19 February we kayaked down the Turner River…

This day did not proceed as plotted at all. The plan had been for about a three mile paddle and some bass fishing way up the Turner River. Plans change frequently when you hang out with Shawn…It’s good to remain flexible and spontaneous! However, in this case it was Bob and I that convinced Shawn to change course.

Shawn and I drove to the Big Cypress Turner River put-in site and Bob followed us. We launched around noon and within 50 yards, we had to lay way back in our kayaks to get under the highway bridge. We had heard that for a while this winter, kayaks and canoes could not get under the bridge at all because the water was too high!

Right away, we spied a gator snout to the right but the current carried us by too quickly to get anything other than a glance. Soon afterwards we were pulling ourselves through tight mangrove tunnels. We broke down our paddles to maneuver a little easier. We frequently had to pause to find areas to back into as we met other kayaks and canoes. It is a popular area!

It was slow going. During one of our pauses, we figured it had taken us an hour to go a half mile! At this rate it would take us six hours to do the plan and that did not include fishing. With the late start and the slow going, we were flirting with fishing in the dark.

Bob and I voted to just do the whole river all the way to the resort rather than fighting the current and tunnels back. We could get our bikes and ride back to get the vehicles. Shawn hesitated but eventually agreed.

For the next mile or two, we alternated between narrow mangrove tunnels and open saw-grass meadows before the river widened and a deeper tributary whisked us along. Suddenly, Shawn spied 20 small snook!

He immediately slipped into fishing mode. Now we were on our third amendment to the plan: Shawn would fish and take his time while we paddled straight to the RV park, still 3-4 miles away, get a ride back to the vehicles, and meet Shawn at the RV park boat ramp.

It was very interesting to see how the river opened up as each creek joined the waters. We had been paddling almost nonstop for four hours when we saw the resort across the channel with the sun setting behind it. The resort was a welcome site!

As we paddled up to the boat channel, our fish supplier, Lindell was hanging out at his fish cleaning station with a friend. I quickly told him the story. His friend, Jeff, was one of Bob’s tennis buddies and he rushed to get his truck. Jeff saved Bob and me a 17 mile bike ride! Plus he shared the story of his 100lb+ tarpon he had caught on a fly rod. The folks at the resort are great and generously offer help when needed!

Just as I got back with the truck, Shawn was nearing the boat ramp… Our timing was perfect. He shared a story with Bob and I of spooking a four foot long gator that nearly made him pee his pants. The small snook he spotted upstream disappeared and never gave him a shot. He missed one good fish at the mouth of the Turner River, but didn’t spot any other fish. It was a long but very memorable day.

Kayak route down the Turner River / Narrow passage through the mangroves

We barely squeezed under the highway bridge

We enjoy kayaking through the mangroves!

On 22 February we kayaked west into the 10,000 Islands…

This time we launched from the north end of Chokoloskee, across from the other boat ramp. It’s a tricky launch. The water is shallow for a quite a distance. If you don’t launch within an hour or two of high tide, you will be struggling through deep mud. Otherwise, it’s a good place to launch with an easy paddle across the channel into the 10,000 Islands.

The water was choppy, but not bad. However, the incoming tide was kicking up a fairly strong current, especially in the narrow channels between the numerous islands. We briefly paddled in one of the main passes between the shallow bay and open ocean. We stroked hard against the funneled current and made very slow progress. I fell slowly behind Shawn and was glad when he waited for me in a large eddy.

We fished the channels, oyster bars, and islands pretty hard and got no hits. Various birds entertained us with their antics, but dolphins put on the best show. A pod of five aggressively fed in a shallow lagoon. The big dolphins ripped through the shallow water and made quite a commotion. The loud splashing ruckus was impressive. Unfortunately and surprisingly, an obnoxious power boat blew through and the dolphins disappeared.

Shawn had a rough time with his fishing tackle. Uncharacteristically, I heard him cuss quite a bit as he made poor casts high into the mangroves, had problems with his knots, untangled his line, dropped his reel in the saltwater, and dealt with problems that hit all fishermen at some point. As he paddled over an oyster bar to free his snagged lure (again), his favorite rod snapped in two! He was done… We paddled back.

Kayak route from north side of Chokoloskee / Pouty face because his rod broke

The dolphins were aggressively feeding

Another close encounter!

On 26 February we paddled up the Turner River again…

We expected clear skies, gusty winds decreasing through the afternoon, and tides with us both ways as we paddled up the Turner River. We only got one out of three of those things right!

We launched at the RV park an hour and a half after low tide with a cross wind around 15mph. The bay was a little rough, but we crossed with our usual pace and effort. As we entered the Turner River, the normal slow downstream current was just starting to stall while the incoming tide fought against it. We rounded the first bend and got smacked with a headwind. Unfortunately, the downstream current also increased as we paddled ahead of the tidal push. Now we worked hard and made slow progress.

The meanders in the large river provided brief respites from the physical exertion. We were thankful to have minimal boat traffic and enjoyed watching the various waterfowl and raptors that the Everglades are known for.

We finally made the turn out of the big river and up the small side creek. We still paddled against a slow current, but the gusty winds were blocked by walls of mangroves and cypress…it was very pleasant.

Then I spotted a small 3-4 foot long alligator! It was just floating under the mangroves and didn’t seem to mind our nearby presence. It watched us closely, but showed no signs of alarm. It was just us, the alligator, colorful birds perched in mangroves, a slow moving tannin stained creek, sunny blue skies, comfortable temperature, and no bugs…the perfect Everglades experience!

We arrived at the small 20 acre lake and set up to fish. Unfortunately, the gusty winds made fishing difficult. The winds didn’t effect two brown pelicans though. They flew low over us and dove for fish nearby, putting on quite a show. They stuck with us for an hour and caught a bunch of bait fish while we caught nothing. The were tons of bait fish in the shallow lake, but we didn’t see the snook or redfish that usually feast on them. I’m certain that the narrow creek and small lake harbor good fish at times, but they eluded us.

We had planned to fish longer, but the annoying winds and poor fishing forced us to give up and head back. High tide was less than 6o minutes away and the incoming current had overcome the downstream flow. Poop…now we had to paddle against the current and the gusty winds to get home! In fact, contradictory to the forecast, the winds had increased to 25mph…yuck!

We kicked into “slow and steady” mode and crawled back with considerable effort. We took a few short breaks out of the current and winds, ate snacks, and “recharged our batteries”. At the final break, we could hear the winds and see white-capped waves whipping across the half mile wide bay. It did not look fun!

We rounded the protected point and got smacked with 25-30mph winds and 2-3 foot waves. We were already tired from the previous five and a half miles of tough paddling, but hit the final half mile with vigor. Slow, steady, strong, deliberate strokes kept us moving forward…barely. Waves continually crashed over the bow soaking us shortly into the battle. And that’s as bad as it got! Two thirds of the way across, the shore started providing a little protection, and it wasn’t long until our strong strokes propelled us quickly forward. It only took us 20 minutes to paddle the final half mile…half as long as we expected. It certainly wore us out and our shoulders and backs were sore for a couple of days, but it was a good adventure. Most importantly, we never had any close calls or felt like we were in trouble. This was a good test of our skills and boosted our confidence!

Kayak route up the Turner River / Tricolored heron

Small alligator watched us closely as we slowly paddled by

We had “kayaking” weather for about half of our visit. More importantly, Shawn felt decent for two weeks! We did some good kayak adventures in Everglades National Park, 10,000 Islands, and Big Cypress National Preserve. Unfortunately, fishing was tough for us and tough for others that we spoke to.

Eight kayak routes totaling over 45 miles!

Next…

We have spent a few days near Crystal River FL, and are now in Pensacola FL. Our next stops are Coden AL, Biloxi MS, and then Grand Isle State Park LA.

Parting shots…