One week exploring Taos, New Mexico…
Why we came…
Because we had never been and there are plenty of interesting things in the area.
The campground…
Monte Bello RV Park was nice. The pull-through sites were long, fairly level, gravel pads with plenty of space. We had full hook-ups, decent wi-fi and a reliable Verizon 4G signal. The facilities were well maintained by the friendly and hardworking manager and owner. The bathrooms, showers, and laundry room were spotless. There was just one clothes washer and one clothes dryer, but they were very reasonably priced. We enjoyed great views of the sweeping valley to the west and the snow covered mountains to the east. The weather was rough during our stay with consistent 20-35mph winds and numerous thunderstorms. We loved watching the thunderstorms rumble across the valley and smack the mountains. The RV park was convenient to town, just six miles away. It was quiet at night, but highway noise was consistent during the day. Weekly stays pay separate for utilities, a first for us in our five years of travel. We were comfortable and would gladly stay at Monte Bello RV Park again.
We had a nice view of Vallecito Mountain, elevation 12,644 feet, from our front window
Nearby towns…
Taos NM, population 5,716 and elevation 6,969 feet, has an interesting history, is quite scenic, and very congested. The town is popular for shopping and art and has various festivals and events all year long that attract a steady flow of tourists. There is a variety of excellent outdoors activities nearby. Taos is in the shadow of New Mexico’s highest point: Wheeler Peak at 13,161 feet. New Mexico’s best ski area, Taos Ski Valley, is just 19 miles from the center of town.
Taos has a Walmart, three good grocery stores, and a plethora of restaurants. Unfortunately, we were turned off by the relentless congested traffic through the narrow streets. We were also turned off by other things we witnessed and heard during our ONE week stay.
We saw quite a few homeless people and a few folks that were clearly intoxicated. Arleen had to get off the road as a high speed chase went through town. We nearly witnessed a domestic dispute in a parking lot and uncomfortably overheard a woman’s sad account of her violent husband while we ate at a restaurant. A grocery store was nearly out of shopping carts “because they had been stolen” and a security guard manned the entrance on weekends. That’s a lot of BS in just ONE week! Taos has problems, way more problems than a small town in a great place with a great history should have. We’d hesitantly return to the area, but would only go into town to sample restaurants and buy supplies.
Adventures…
13 May, drive from Chama to Taos…
We slowly wound up highway 64 over Penasco Amarillo Pass, topping out at 10,500 feet. Though there were a lot of switchbacks, the pitch was mostly gentle, the shoulders were wide, and the road was in decent shape. We felt very comfortable hauling our little home across the pretty mountains.
The scenery was spectacular! We spotted a couple of alpine tarns amongst the majestic mountain peaks. After spending our winter in Florida, we got really excited when we spotted snow along the road! The highlight was looking back over the Brazos Cliffs and its steep red walls. We’ll have to check it out while fly-fishing the Brazos River the next time we are in the area.
Just west of the Brazos Overlook on highway 64
The Brazos Cliffs and distant San Juan Mountains
On 15 May we explored the southern half of the Enchanted Circle…
Angel Fire is a community that has been high on our “Potential Places to Live” list, but neither of us had been there. We eagerly set out on a day trip to check it out and drive the southern part of the scenic Enchanted Circle.
First, we drove through the Fernando de Taos, Rio Canyon and over Palo Flechado Pass, elevation 9,109 feet. We felt at home as we drove by open meadows surrounded by aspen groves, spruce, pine, and fir trees. The back side, or east side of the pass, drops steeply and has some tight switchbacks for two miles. The road also narrows and deteriorates…it’s wise to follow the posted 25mph speed limit!
We popped out into the open Moreno Valley (geology link for Mary) and were amazed at the view from Apache Peak to Wheeler Peak to the Angel Fire Ski Resort. The long, wide valley averages roughly 8,300 feet elevation and is lined on all sides by pretty mountains. The scenic valley would not be out of place in other mountain states like Colorado or Montana! We also drove by a brand new RV resort. “Well, we’ll have to check that out.”
However, we were hungry and headed to the highly rated Angel Fired Pizza. We hit the sweet spot between lunch and dinner and were the only patrons. We grabbed a table with a great view on the second floor restaurant. They use imaginative combinations of spices and ingredients for pizza and flatbread that was as good as advertised.
Afterwards, we stopped at one of the trail heads. The town of Angel Fire maintains at least 50 miles of trails that are open for hiking, biking, cross country skiing, and snowshoeing. Then we drove up some of the ski town roads that parallel the ski runs. It was easy to imagine living in one of those homes perched half way up the mountain with an incredible view of the Moreno Valley, surrounding mountains, and a ski area in your back yard!
Next, we drove back to Angel Fire RV Resort. We spent a couple of hours talking to the manager and wandering around the nicely laid out RV park. After five years on the road, we both agree that we prefer resorts like this one even though they are pricey. We picked out a site to possibly spend an entire winter in three years.
Next, we stopped at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park. The construction of the park began in the early 1970s. It is a beautiful memorial to Marine Lt David Westphall and other who were killed in Vietnam. His grief stricken parents, Dr. Victor and Jeanne Westphall first donated land and then used their son’s life insurance to build a Chapel as a memorial.
The site has changed ownership several times but has always received thousands of visitors every year. It was designated a state park in 2005 and underwent extensive renovation in 2010. Now it has a media room and a research library along with an informative visitor center. We were both emotionally moved by the stories of sacrifice that come to life through the displays.
We walked around and took a good look at the ten acres where the Veterans Cemetery will be constructed in 2017 in accordance with federal standards. Their goal is to become a National Veterans Cemetery. It is by far the nicest Veterans Memorial we have been to. If we do eventually settle down in the Angel Fire area, we would want our ashes spread there.
Finally, we drove to Eagle Nest Lake State Park. We stopped at the south access site to see what the kayak launching options were. We’d need a wheeled kayak cart to traverse the few hundred rough yards between the parking area and lake. Next, we drove through the adorable little town of Eagle Nest. It was very clean and tidy and had several small RV parks. We checked out another state park access on the east side of town . The view was pretty, but we didn’t linger. Thunderstorms were building, white caps were frothing, and finally hail started falling. That ended our day and we drove back to Taos.
Enchanted Circle map
Watch for elk around Angel Fire / Angel Fire Resort and the new RV resort
They are still working on this brand new RV resort. It will be impressive when finished!
Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park
Building the memorial / Map of Vietnam region / Key points in the costly war
The museum had informative and sombering displays
The memorial chapel overlooks the valley / “Dear Mom & Dad” soldier writing home near UH-1D
Eagle Nest Lake
On 16 May we explored the Taos Plaza and Taos Pueblo…
Arleen had a few things she wanted to shop for so we headed to the Taos Plaza. Thankfully, she is a quick shopper and it is not too painful to go with her. She has her list and quickly pops in and out of shops with minimal lingering.
The Plaza is the historic center of Taos and a good place to check out the old adobe buildings, the colorful wall murals, and incongruous shoppers. Art boutiques outnumber everything else, but that’s not our thing. After only buying a new skirt and shirt, we wandered across Paseo Del Pueblo to the Kit Carson home and museum. We read the interpretive signs, and imagined life during Kit Carson’s era when the American west was still wild.
Afterwards, we drove east of town to the Taos Pueblo. The difference between these ancient homes, and ruins we have visited throughout the southwest, is that the Red Willow people still live here, as they have for over a thousand years. The Pueblo is considered to be one of the oldest continually inhabited communities in the US.
We wandered around the Pueblo plaza taking in views of the St Jerome Church and the impressive north and south houses. The north house may be one of the most photographed and painted structures in America. Scattered around the plaza were drying racks that are still utilized to dry corn, meats, and berries. We also saw adobe hornos used to bake bread. Delicious odors of tacos and other treats wafted through the air. Several of the homes double as shops selling food wares and arts and crafts. Free tours are offered but we knew our time was very limited based on the clouds that were darkening above us. Sure enough, as we were leaving the plaza, the wind picked up and a torrential rain started to fall. It was “every man for themselves” as we raced back to the truck.
Walking through a portion of the Taos Plaza / A mural along main street
Lilacs were peaking all over Taos / Kit Carson, one of the American west’s first mountain men, arrived in Taos in 1826
Kit Carson’s courtyard
Taos Pueblo was built between 1000 and 1450 and is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the US.
The north-side Pueblo, one of the most photographed and painted structures in America
On 17 May we walked along Rio Grande Gorge…
The Rio Grande Gorge was only a quick two mile drive from our campground. We went there a few times to wander along the rim. The first time we were treated to a visit from a herd of Big Horn Sheep. We were really surprised to see, in a herd of twenty sheep, that eight of them were rams. We walked along the rim, getting glimpses of the river 800 feet below.
The gorge is about 50 miles long and runs “through the basalt flows of the Taos Plateau volcanic field.” We could certainly tell it was volcanic from the large black porous boulders that were strewn about. As we walked, we reminisced about time we have spent on this river, from its source in the Colorado Rockies south to Big Bend National Park, Texas.
The Rio Grande Gorge is roughly 50 miles long and 800 feet deep
This herd of bighorn sheep roams the area on the west side of the Gorge. They were reintroduced to the area in August 2007.
On 18 May we toured the Earthships …
We had seen a program about the Earthships and were excited to hear they have a visitor center at their main community west of Taos. “The Greater World Community is the world’s largest self-sufficient residential development… comprised of 650 acres of rolling mesa and features expansive views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The community includes 347 acres of commonly owned park land. Building sites and completed homes are available for purchase.” For the $7 entry fee, we were able to tour the visitor center, view a short film, and wander around the exterior. “Earthship Biotech provides design services for self-sufficient, low impact buildings local and around the world.”
We really like the water management system and would like to incorporate some of the ideas when we build a house someday. We also like the idea of using both wind and solar power. A few of the wind turbines were whimsical metal works of art. However, the walls are built of old tires, bottles, cans and dirt and built into a hill side or trench. The design is very energy efficient but you end up with windows on only the south side of the house. It is a great passive solar system but is not really designed for views, but as a garden. Again, we would not go forward with the whole idea but would borrow some of the concepts. Even so, we do see their ideas as a logical solution to future water, energy and other resource challenges.
Entering the “Greater World Earthship Community” / Touring the Visitor Center / Finding peace
An example home. The outside walls consist mostly of tires stuffed with dirt. Recycled bottles and cans help shape the walls and provide color and texture.
Example buildings. Note the wind turbine in the left picture.
The water system
On 19 May we hiked near Taos Ski Valley …
Finally, we took a day to go into the mountain wilderness. We drove up to the Taos Ski Valley and parked. From there, we had a plethora of trail options! We chose the trail to the Bull-of-the-Woods meadow. The same trail continues to climb to Wheeler Peak, the highest spot in New Mexico at 13,161 feet.
As it has lately, it felt SO good to put boots to the dirt trail and start climbing. We crisscrossed the horse trail that goes to the same destination. After just a mile we came to a creek crossing. Several downed trees had been placed side by side to form a rickety bridge. We carefully made our way across. The temperatures were chilly for a spring day and we did not want to end up with wet feet!
Shortly after that, right at 10,000 feet elevation, the trail turned north and became clogged with snow. Arleen moved along tentatively but started to slip and slide. Since, she was still dealing with a tight back, we decided to turn around.
We wandered around Taos Ski Valley before heading home. It was very quiet and closed up tight with all the skiers long gone. We liked that the ski area has maintained its European image.
On the drive home, we stopped at a few creeks to poke among the cottonwoods and see if we could spy any morels. We left without any but knew conditions were conducive to a fruiting.
Entering Taos Ski Valley
Hike route / Taos was founded by German, Ernie Blake in 1954 and still embraces its European roots
There are miles of trails in the area / Keep an eye out for bighorn sheep, but don’t feed them!
A tricky creek crossing on wet and loose logs. Note the snow in the woods.
View of Kachina Peak from the hiking trail
Next…
We spent a week near South Fork CO and are currently near Buena Vista CO. Then we will spend a month in one of our favorite places: Westcliffe CO. Our next stops after that are Crested Butte CO, Ouray CO, Silverton CO, and Pagosa Springs CO. We love summer in the Rockies!
Parting shots…
Need a snack at the Rio Grande Gorge?
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