CO -- Pagosa Springs, 26 Aug-5 Oct 2016

Nearly six weeks in Pagosa Springs, Colorado!

Why we came…

To explore the southern San Juan Mountains.

Fall in the San Juan Mountains is fantastic!

The campgrounds…

Pagosa Riverside Campground was decent.  We had a big pull-through site with plenty of room.  The pad was fairly level packed gravel.  Mature cottonwood trees might block satellite from some sites, but not ours.  We had full hook-ups and were comfortable.  Wi-fi was spotty and sometimes useless as it got bogged down with heavy usage.  The Verizon cell phone signal was also very weak.  Laundry facilities were decent and reasonably priced.  The campground stayed consistently busy, even after Labor Day weekend.  We liked the location, just a couple of miles east of town and next to the San Juan River.  It was usually peaceful, though there was faint highway noise and occasional noisy dogs. 

We were tucked under the cottonwood trees

   

Fly-fishing the San Juan River by the campground  /  A pretty 15 inch long rainbow trout

We spent five weeks at Pagosa Riverside and chose to move because we wanted to check out another RV park and we got tired of the lousy wi-fi and cell phone service.  (Remember…we aren’t camping, we’re living!)

We spent our last five days at Mountain Landing RV Park and were very comfortable.  It was built just four years ago and has big camp sites and good utilities.  The pads are packed gravel and most are fairly level.  We had full hook-ups, reliable wi-fi, and a good Verizon 4G data signal (yay!).  Tall ponderosa trees would make satellite challenging in some sites, but was good in ours (site 25).  The laundry and bathroom facilities were well maintained like everything else.  The RV park borders a storage area and a few private homes so the setting was just ok.  There was some road noise from busy Piedra Road during the day, but it was quiet through most of the night.  The location was convenient to things on both of sides of town.  When we come back we will request site 23.

Nearby towns…

Pagosa Springs CO, population 1,727 and elevation 7,126 feet, is great!  People come from all over to experience its famous hot springs.  It seemed that there was always something going on during our stay:  “Four Corners Folk Festival”, “Colorfest Mass Balloon Ascensions”, “Mountain Chile Cha Cha Festival”, and other events.  Though the little town has less than 2,000 residents, it’s a busy and vibrant place and feels bigger than it is.  It’s touristy and draws folks from all over, but license plates from Texas and New Mexico prevail.  There are far more services, restaurants, and stores than most towns of equal size.  There is a big Walmart, good-sized City Market (Krogers), three other small grocery stores, roughly 50 restaurants, and an expanding hospital.  We like Pagosa most for its access to many miles of National Forest and Wilderness areas.  It would take a life time to explore the area thoroughly!

   

View of Pagosa Springs from Reservoir Hill in 1925  /  Climbing Reservoir Hill in August 2016

   

The hot springs resorts and San Juan River in Pagosa Springs

Durango CO, population 17,557 and elevation 6,512 feet, is located 60 miles to the west of Pagosa Springs.  It’s the main supply and service center in the area.  It has a college, Fort Lewis, a decent sized hospital, a regional airport, lots of restaurants, and lots of stores.

Future home…

We have a short list of towns where we might settle down. When we arrive in one of those towns, we always look at houses and property.

On our first day in Pagosa, we drove around and looked at neighborhoods. Arleen was like Goldilocks; “Those are too small”, “Those are too big”, “Those are too close together”. Finally, we arrived in a sleepy little neighborhood north of town. We were immediately drawn to the incredible view of majestic Pagosa Peak and the surrounding San Juan Mountains. As we drove around, we came to a perfect lot and it was for sale!

First, we contacted the real estate agent with a long list of questions. Next, we looked at several comparable properties in the area. Over the next week, we did more research and talked to three local builders.

Finally, we met potential neighbors Nancy and Craig, and, Arlie and Brian. Their answers to our many questions solidified our decision!

We are now owners of a three acre lot with a perfect view of Pagosa Peak and surrounding San Juan Mountains! We will start the building process in about three years. By the time we move into the home, we will have been living on the road for ten years. That sounds like a nice round number to us and time to move into the next phase of our lives.

After the decision to buy property in Pagosa Springs, it added a different perspective to all of our adventures. We felt like we were exploring our “backyard”!

Looking northwest through northeast from our property (click the picture for a better view)

   

Arleen and her mom  /  Me and my parents

   

My cousin, Shasta, and Daren  /  My cousin, DJ, and his dad

Adventures…

Mushroom hunting…

We had researched potential mushroom routes for some time before we arrived in Pagosa. We hit the woods with vigor looking for our treasures before time ran out. We knew that the first hard freeze would end our mushroom hunting season.

Over eleven days, we explored almost fifty miles of potential mushroom territory. Unfortunately, in some of the areas we came away without a single mushroom. However, in a few places we found the largest and most plentiful chanterelle patches we have seen since we were in Oregon. In addition, we found our first real cottonwood oyster cluster. From one tree we hauled away a few pounds of the coveted fungus.

After we made the decision to buy property in the area, our mushroom hunting efforts took on a new twist. We always document good patches imagining that we might return some day. Now, we know that we will return. We were thrilled to document some fine chanterelle patches in our new “backyard”. In addition, we know where a good oyster log is.

Some of our shroom hunting efforts were unsuccessful this year.  We have a theory that the monsoon season was weak for the southern San Juans. This would explain why the porcini and hawk wings harvest in this area was weak. Even if our theory is wrong, we have found plenty in other parts of the San Juans that are within a days adventure from Pagosa Springs.

We ended the mushroom season with the first hard freeze the second week of September. We had a good year and filled several containers with dried porcinis, hawk wings, and oysters. In addition, we have a few pounds of frozen chanterelles waiting for a cold winter day and Czech mushroom soup.

      

Our first chanterelles in the Pagosa Springs area!

   

About 4 pounds of fresh chanterelles!  /  Thimbleberries (yummy!) changing colors below the aspens

       

Two old king boletes and a couple of other shrooms along a creek  /  Nearly 7 pounds of oyster mushrooms!

       

Lots of golden chanterelles and pretty fall colors

On 28 August we hiked up V Mountain…

Our goal this day was to hike to the edge of “V” Mountain and mushroom hunt along the way.

We drove south on Highway 84 to the turn off for Buckles Lake. We drove just over seven miles up a narrow and winding mostly smooth dirt road to the trail head. From here, Buckles Lake fishermen head north. We however, walked behind the gate to the northeast.

We followed an old closed dirt road for almost a half mile before the trail turned more east and up. As it climbed 1,000 feet over the next mile it became rocky and braided.

We walked through a large aspen grove. Alongside the trail, thimbleberry bushes were fruiting as far as the eye could see. Between the tall aspens and various shrubs, we knew the colors in this area would be very impressive in a few short weeks.

After the arduous climb, the trail came up to a bluff area. The trail turned and headed north. At this point we turned south and “free styled” cross country. At first, this was easy as most of the bluff was a grassy area broken occasionally by groups of spruce and fir trees.

Half way to our goal, the top of V Rock, we headed into a deep dark spruce stand. Sadly, most of the spruce has been killed by the evil bark beetle. Our way was blocked at every turn by down fall, but we prevailed.

Then we arrived at V Rock. The top of the rocky split is mostly filled in with soils and grassy areas so we were able to cross and climb to the overlook where the view made it worth our effort. We could see southwest into New Mexico and several impressive plateaus.

“V” Rock is marked with a large wooden cross at the top. We also saw a small memorial plaque. It’s an impressive place to have your earthly existence remembered. The cross was loose so we took the time to fortify it with some stout rocks. The winter winds and snow will soon hammer this exposed high spot.

We would return to “V” Rock again on another day. Maybe just to collect those thimbleberries…

   

Hike route up V Mountain  /  Our first time in the South San Juan Wilderness!

Walking across the top of V Mountain

   

Standing at the edge of V Rock  /  V Mountain (on the left)…we were just up there!

On 3 September we explored the Lobo Overlook…

The goal this day was to go mushroom hunting but we wanted to combine it with epic scenery. We drove to Wolf Creek Pass. Just to the west of the pass, across from the ski area, is a short three mile dirt road that winds up to an overlook and picnic area. In the same area the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) crosses Highway 160 and climbs to stay along the divide.

We parked at the overlook, elevation 11,800 feet, and walked along the edge of the rim with a great view in every direction. Wolf Creek Ski Resort was spread out directly to the south. Our thoughts were about skiing there in the future and snowshoeing up to this spot.

Then two Red-tailed Hawks grabbed our attention. They were diving and playing in the wind right in front of us. From what we can tell, there is a healthy population of these remarkable raptors in this area. It seemed that almost every day we saw one or more hawks hunting and preparing for winter.

We hiked a mile of the CDT and then retraced our steps. It’s unlikely that we will ever through-hike the entire trail, but we hope to do it in bits and pieces over several seasons. 

             

Hike route along the Continental Divide Trail north of Wolf Creek Pass  /  Info about Lobo Pass

Looking southeast towards Wolf Creek Ski Resort and the South San Juan Mountains

Looking southwest towards Pagosa Springs

These raptors put on quite a show

On 7-9 September we tent camped near Poage Lake…

We wanted to explore a few areas east of Wolf Creek Pass. Rather than making several day trips, we decided to pack up the tent and get back to real camping for a few days.

Our goal was to fish upper Beaver Creek, both Crystal Lakes, and Poage Lake. Plus, the area looked ideal for mushroom hunting.

The ideal camping spot next to the creek we wanted (from satellite imagery) was already occupied with a hunting camp. We established our camp a short distance up the road. We were concerned the hunters might be a bit loud at night. But they were up and out on their ATVs before the sun rose and did not return until sunset every day.

The temperatures dipped into the low thirties each night. In the mornings, we got hesitantly out of the tent and quickly fixed some hot tea. Then we would spend a few hours poking around in the woods for shrooms.  At night and early in the morning we could hear distant elk calls. It was neat but it made us wonder if it was real elk or hunters?

On our first full day, we went up to Lower Crystal Lake. From the dirt road it is only a short half mile trek down to the lake. It looked promising despite the evidence of cow tromping and droppings everywhere. I saw two or three fish rise towards the center of the lake. I tried all my tricks but received no takers. My theory was that they were brook trout and were hanging out deep.

Arleen mushroomed around the lake and did not have any better luck than I did. We were thirsty and filtered water at the lake. It tasted bad and with the cattle evidence everywhere, we dumped it and headed back to Beaver Creek. The little stream flowed clear and the water tasted fine.

The next day we drove up to Poage Lake. It’s an “artificial flies and lures only” lake. In addition you can only keep two smaller trout. I took my time fishing the entire perimeter of the lake and really enjoyed it! I caught about 15 and lost an equal number of pretty cutthroat trout. I’d spot the trout cruising 10-50 feet from the bank, gently drop my small grasshopper fly a few feet ahead of them, and watch them come up and slurp it in…It was so much fun!

Arleen made a concerted effort to look in every cranny of the woods around the lake. She did find one small hawk wing mushroom but that was all. I was just happy that she did not get lost!

We did not fish upper Crystal Lake or Beaver Creek. But when we live in the Pagosa area, this trip will be a regular pilgrimage!

   

Hike route around Poage Lake  /  I really enjoyed fishing Poage Lake

Enjoying some hot tea at our camp spot

Lower Crystal Lake

Fly-fishing Lower Crystal Lake.  Saw 2 or 3 fish towards center of lake, but didn’t get any bites.

We kept our eye out for shrooms

Poage Lake

   

Arleen looked for mushrooms while I fished

   

There are a lot of pretty cutthroat trout in Poage Lake  /  I did very well with small grasshopper flies

On 10 September we kayaked Williams Creek Reservoir…

It was time to check out what we were calling, “Our Backyard Lake”:  500 acre, Williams Creek Reservoir.

The Reservoir is 26 miles from Pagosa. You get there by taking Piedra River Road which becomes Forest Road 631 and then take a final turn onto Forest Road 640. The dirt roads are maintained fairly well, but get a bit rough and narrow in spots.

Williams Creek Reservoir, elevation 8,500 feet, is a beautiful lake with Flag and Bald Mountain, Cimarrona Peak, Toner and Sugarloaf Mountain forming an impressive 12,000 foot high backdrop.

We launched the kayaks and I paddled towards the inlet. I hooked four rainbows and brookies on size 16 gold ribbed hares ear nymphs. The biggest was a feisty 16 inch long rainbow.

In the meantime, Arleen paddled nearly five miles to check out most of the lake. She paddled by the campground and the day use area and around to the inlet and spotted a few resident ospreys on the way. Finally, she spent time in an apparent bird estuary zone taking pictures of geese, ducks, and a prairie hawk.

We thoroughly enjoyed our “backyard lake”. We’d return a few more times to bring family.

Arleen’s kayak route around Williams Creek Reservoir

Williams Creek Reservoir is very pretty.  We saw various kinds of birds & caught nice-sized rainbow & brook trout

On 12 September we soaked in the Piedra River hot springs…

We learned about the Piedra River Hot Springs from a local visitor’s guide. “For centuries, the water in Pagosa Springs have drawn visitors who wish to take advantage of the healing qualities of the world’s deepest natural hot spring”.

There are three bathing facilities in town. But what caught our interest was the description of a walk-in “primitive” hot spring experience.

To get to the trailhead, we drove 20 miles west of Pagosa on Highway 160 and followed almost seven miles of dirt road to the Sheep Creek Trailhead in the San Juan National Forest.

The trail immediately dropped steeply. We laughed remembering reviews of the hike out as, “ass buster”. Hiking down can be so easy! Then, after an afternoon of getting dehydrated in hot pools, inexperienced or low-land hikers might have issues climbing out.

After dropping for a mile, the trail emerged in a pretty ponderosa pine meadow with primitive camping spots and fire rings. It then meandered up and down for a half mile before coming to a shelf above the river. Perched above the river were a few more obvious camp spots.

Just 20 feet below, we could see the pools created by previous soakers with circles of boulders and rocks. There was one couple at a camp site but only a single dude in the pools below. We scrambled down and stripped to our swim suits. Clothing is optional but we are both a little modest.

The pools varied from cool to very warm. We swapped stories with the summer rafting guide/winter ski lift operator while moving between the various warm pools and the chilly river.

After sufficiently toasting ourselves in the therapeutic waters, it was time to fish the pretty river. The stretch of water from the Piedra River Road Bridge to First Fork Road Bridge is restricted to “artificial lures and flies only”. In addition, it is “catch and release only”. This is my favorite type of water!

Surprisingly, I had no takers on a hopper, but I caught two small rainbows and two browns on hare’s ears and stone fly nymphs. Unfortunately, rapidly threatening skies ended my fishing too soon. Suddenly thunder rumbled through the narrow canyon.

Arleen and I moved quickly up the steep rocks, narrowly avoiding poison ivy, and took shelter under a downed cottonwood for about an hour. By the time the storm moved on, we were quite chilly. We warmed ourselves in the pools again and fished briefly, before getting dressed and hiking back.

Not only did the pools warm us up but the one mile “assbuster” climb out of the canyon got our heart rates up.

   

Hike route to the Piedra River hot springs  /  Sheep Creek trail descends steeply to the Piedra River

   

The Piedra River flows through a steep canyon with a healthy mixed forest  /  Trout food…a stonefly husk

   

Fly-fishing the Piedra River near the hot springs  /  Caught a few small rainbow and brown trout

A panoramic view of the hot springs and the Piedra River.  See Arleen?

   

We had a pleasant soak in the hot springs

On 13 September we hiked another part of the Piedra River…

The Piedra Bridge is fairly close to our new property. We eagerly looked forward to hiking and fishing in our own backyard.

The bridge is on the Piedra River Road, a mostly smooth packed dirt road. Several creeks enter the Piedra River along the eleven mile hiking trail. Our goal was the junction with the Weminuche Creek, four miles downstream.

We paused to read a sign about river otters. They were reintroduced to the area in 1978 and we really hoped to see them!

There was another trail, the Ice Cave Ridge Trail that veered up and right. We’d be back for that one another day. Today we went left at the fork to walk along the Piedra River.

We dropped into the canyon and were amazed at the change in the plant diversity. Above was a mixed coniferous forest and aspen. Down in the shadow of the 200 foot high cliffs, it was like we had entered a temperate rain forest with tall stately spruce with moss dangling from their limbs and an understory of ferns. The canyon was much cooler and moister.

The trail was rocky with dips up and down around bits of crumbling rock wall. After a mile the canyon opened into a wide grassy meadow bordered with huge cottonwoods and occasional primitive camp spots.  Arleen rushed over to the fallen cottonwoods to see if there was any evidence of oyster mushrooms.

Our first creek junction was Williams Creek. We appreciated the nice bridge over the decent sized stream. Williams Creek nearly doubles the size of the Piedra River.

The meadows continued for a mile and half when we came to a bridge marked “stock” bridge. Then the trail climbed a couple of hundred feet above the river to provide great views both up and down the pretty valley. 

We dropped steeply to the bridge across Weminuche Creek.  I traded my hiking boots for sandals, strung up my fly rod, and plopped into the river. There were three great fishing holes a couple of hundred yards upstream. I caught a few rainbows and browns on hares ears and stone fly nymphs. The biggest was a brown trout that was about 15 inches long.

The trail beckoned us to head further, but four miles (eight miles round trip) was enough. Someday we will return for an overnight trip to explore rest of the Piedra River Trail.

   

Hike route along the Piedra River  /  Just 11 trail miles to the next road

   

We really enjoyed the first mile of trail through the steep-walled canyon  /  Then the canyon opens up

Looking down the Piedra River valley from above the Weminuche Creek junction

Looking up the Piedra River valley from near the Weminuche Creek junction

   

Fly-fishing the Piedra River just upstream of the Weminuche Creek  /  A pretty brown trout

On 15 September we hiked up to Four Mile Creek Falls…

This would be a day hike to check out two different waterfalls: Falls Creek and Fourmile Creek Falls. We would also see the beginning of fall colors

We followed a winding County Road 400 and Forest Service Road 645 for 12 miles to the Fourmile Creek Trailhead. From the same trailhead, you can hike up to the right shoulder of Pagosa Peak and Upper Fourmile Lake. We’ll do those in the future.

We hiked three miles to the base of the Fall Creek cascade. The first part of the trail was rocky with sharp ups and downs before settling down into a lovely smooth spruce forest trail. But first, to the east, we were treated to views of Eagle Peak and Eagle Mountain and impressive volcanic remnants and formations.

Then high above us to the west, the dramatic 300 foot Falls Creek Falls plummeted to the boulders below. We scrambled up a short but steep trail to get showered with spray and a closer look. We sat awestruck, craning our necks imagining the falls roaring with spring runoff. We will return some day to see for ourselves.

We picked up a feint trail behind the falls, in an attempt to find Fourmile Creek Falls. We got twisted around a bit, had a quick glimpse of them near the top, but could never find the base of them. When we return to see Falls Creek Falls bursting, we will find Fourmile Falls.

   

Hike route to Falls Creek and Fourmile Creek Falls  /  We like the Weminuche Wilderness!

   

The Falls Creek cascade is 300 feet high

The upper part of Fourmile Creek Falls and Eagle Peak

On 16 September we climbed Blackhead Peak…

We were really excited that our new neighbors, Craig and Nancy, were going to take a break from their marathon training schedule to join us to climb Blackhead Peak. As you drive through downtown Pagosa, Blackhead beckons you from the middle of Main Street.

We followed Mill Creek Road for sixteen miles till it ended. It is a well maintained dirt road except the last few miles which were a bit rough.

We hiked an old abandoned dirt road for about a mile and crossed a few small creeks before noting a cairn to the left of the second major crossing. Fortunately, the hike is popular and it was easy to pick out the beaten down path through the dried wild flowers and aspen groves and mixed fir spruce forest.

It was a great opportunity to share stories with our new neighbors and we hardly noticed as we began to take steeper and steeper scrambles up the mountain side. Before we knew it, we left the forest for a perfect view of the distinctive Nipple Mountain. It is easy to find Blackhead Peak from anywhere in the valley, because of this unique formation to his left. Up close however, Nipple looked more like a stacked chimney or something a bit phallic.

We climbed a few more hundred feet to a low shelf on Blackhead, and level with Nipple, to take a break. Nancy, proud of her progress, decided it was high enough for her. Arleen happily volunteered to head down with her.

Craig and I headed up to conquer the last five hundred feet of climbing. The short section where we said goodbye to the ladies was the most precarious. It was steep and very rocky requiring us to use four limbs at times. But it was so worth it!

After the steep talus section, the rest of the route traverses a wide open tundra slope. The view from the summit at 12,500 feet was incredible! It felt like we were on top of the world. Members of the San Juan Outdoor Club caught up to us at the top. I spoke with a few of them and took mental notes about other San Juan Mountain routes. Arleen and I will join the adventurous club when we return to Pagosa.

Craig and I slowly made our way down the steep sections. We did lose the trail at one point. Once we were back on track, we met a pair of hikers headed up who confirmed that Nancy and Arleen had the same issue. They arrived back at the truck shortly before Craig and I did. As we left our neighbors behind, we promised that we would share many more adventures in the future.

   

Hike route up Blackhead Peak  /  A pretty waterfall along the way

Nipple Peak is in the middle and Blackhead Peak is on the right

Craig, Nancy, and me midway up and looking west towards Pagosa Springs

Straddling two different drainages in the San Juan Mountains.  Nipple Peak is in the center.

We took a break on a steep rocky section.

   

Craig celebrating his arrival on the summit of Blackhead Peak, elevation 12,500 feet  /  Adding a rock to the cairn at the top

Just a part of the 360 degree view from the top

On 17 September we watched hot air balloons and spent time with family…

For Pagosa Springs ColorFest Weekend, we had a number of visitors. First, Arleen’s Mom, Ellen, and sister, Mary and husband Kendel, came to visit us. Next, my cousin Shasta and her husband Darren, came as part of a balloon team. Throughout the weekend, we were able to share many meals with all of them and have a few fun adventures!

One of the items on Ellen’s bucket list was to see a Mass Balloon Ascension up close and personal. We were there early on a cool Saturday morning to mill about the balloons as the teams laid them out and started slowly filling them with hot air. We looked for Shasta and Darren’s team but could not find them till we saw the two pink balloons, Boobalina and Toots, rise into the air.

Arleen and her family watched, amazed as the 27 balloons filled the sky. A few of the skilled pilots managed to make quick splash downs in the San Juan River. It was an amazing experience that Shasta and Darren were able to make more special for them by giving them first hand stories of ballooning adventures.

       

We really enjoyed the “ColorFest Weekend”!

   

After the Saturday balloon launch, Arleen and her family went to soak in the Healing Waters Spa. It was an opportunity for me to take Shasta and Darren on an adventure.

Piedra Falls is perfect for an afternoon adventure. The drive takes far longer than the half mile hike to the falls. And along the drive, there’s a good chance to spot critters like deer, elk, and turkeys.  First, we drove seventeen miles out of Pagosa on the Piedra River Road. Then, we took a right at Sportsman’s Campground and Mountain Cabins. Then we wound around CR 636 and CR 637 for seven miles and parked at the trailhead.

The first part of the trail is through the creek washout area so it is rocky but still well signed and easy to follow. After the initial rocky section, the trail was easier and more pleasant to walk.

The trail is only a half mile and ends at the pretty falls. Shasta had never seen them before even though she has visited Pagosa Springs many times.

                  

  Shasta and Darren at Piedra Falls

On 19 September we kayaked with Ellen…

Ellen’s bucket list also had kayaking on it. Arleen and I could help her check off that item.

We headed out to Williams Creek Reservoir. Ellen is a strong swimmer so we were not worried about that. Our concern was getting in and out of the kayak which can be tricky.

Arleen gave her a demonstration first. Ellen nervously plopped in and laughed with relief when she was safely “aboard”. She and Arleen did a good two mile route.

When they returned, I went to help stabilize the kayak as Ellen got out. It went smoothly and she really enjoyed the experience.

Afterwards it was nice just to sit and enjoy the beautiful day. We met and chatted with a future neighbor, Sandra. Sandra kayaks by herself and, like us, enjoys all the bird life. We look forward to a hike with her in the future.

   

Ellen and Arleen relaxing at Williams Creek Reservoir  /  Ellen’s first time in a kayak!

Ellen kayaking Williams Creek Reservoir

On 20 September there was a “Ladies Day”…

Arleen planned a ladies day with her Mom. It included getting their nails done and lunch at Pagosa Baking Company.

Afterwards, they went to Pagosa Feed and Nursery to shop for trees. Arleen picked out several deciduous trees including Autumn Blaze Maple, Canada Red Chokecherry, Hot Wing Maple, Multi Stem Flame Maple, and Indian Magic Crabapple.

We seriously thought about getting some maples now. It would be great for them to grow a few years in our yard before we return. However, we decided against it since baby trees need attention the first few years.

   

Mary, Ellen, & Arleen pretending to swim at Williams Creek Reservoir  /  “Stay away from the edge Ellen!”

On 21 September we drove to Silverton…

The next leg of Ellen’s “Autumn Rockies Tour” was to Ouray. We would go with her as far as Silverton. Arleen volunteered to drive her vehicle so she could enjoy the scenery.

As soon as we left Durango and started to climb into the mountains, the aspen groves dotted the hill sides in a coating of yellow and splashes of brilliant orange and red. The rare red and orange aspen color is due to genetic and environmental reasons. There were more near Silverton than we have seen in other areas.

Unfortunately, it rained the entire drive so we only got out for quick glimpses at overlooks. The low clouds also obscured the impressive mountain peaks in the area.

We stopped at the Visitor Center in Silverton to get a few extra maps. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad train was in town and Ellen enjoyed seeing it.

We had a great lunch at the historic Grand Imperial Hotel. Then we wished Ellen safe journeys over the Million Dollar Highway and a good time in Ouray.

   

Arleen drove Ellen’s car so she could enjoy the pretty drive  /  A nice hug at Molas Pass

   

The narrow gauge train in Silverton  /  The San Juan County courthouse in Silverton

Spectacular fall colors along highway 550 between Silverton and Durango CO

On 23 September we walked the Coyote Hill loop in the snow…

Arleen had cabin fever from being cooped up all morning. The weather was supposed to be cloudy with occasional rain showers.  We decided to check out one of future “backyard” hikes in the San Juan National Forest.

On the way it started to rain but we “forecasted” that it would pass. A bit farther up the road, the rain started to mix with snow. Still we pressed.

The Coyote Hill Loop is just as you enter the National Forest on Piedra River Road. It is open only to foot, horse, and mountain bike traffic. Unlike the Turkey Springs Trail system across the street that is open to ATVs and motorcycles.

By the time we parked, the rain had switched completely to snow. Little flakes turned into big flakes and our visibility was limited to only a short distance. The trail was muddy and slippery, but we trudged on believing the weather would improve. It never did.

Initially it wasn’t much fun, but we ended up enjoying it. The falling snow made it very peaceful and we liked the brilliant fall colors of the scrub oak. We barely spotted a few deer that were dusted with fresh snow. There is supposed to be a great view of Pagosa Peak, but falling snow kept it hidden from us.

The loop was nearly three and a half miles with about four hundred feet of climbing. This will be perfect for one of our regular “home” walks; a great morning or afternoon exercise loop. In addition, the trails are groomed for cross country skiing during the winter.

   

Coyote Hill hike loop  /  Heavy snow and scrub oak fall colors

See the two deer?

   

These “before and after” pictures crack us up!

On 24 September we hiked up to Windy Pass…

My parents were expected to arrive in the afternoon. We planned a short six mile hike with 2,000 feet of climbing to Windy Pass to get some exercise and to see some fall colors.

We headed east towards Wolf Creek Pass and parked at a pull out on the west side of the highway just short of Treasure Falls. We scampered across the highway and headed up the trail. We could hear road noise for a little while but thankfully, it quickly faded as we climbed.

The trail immediately pitched up and consistently ascended two thousand feet in three miles. The trail was rocky, muddy and slick in places because of recent rain and snow. Still, we paused to appreciate the spruce and fir forest dressed in fresh snow.

As we crested the top of Windy Pass, elevation 10,000 feet, the vista ahead stopped us in our tracks. There was a small sunny yellow aspen grove along our saddle. We had an epic view across the East Fork Valley. We could see large bright yellow and orange aspen groves half way up Treasure Mountain, Alberta, Montezuma, and Summit Peaks. The surrounding mountain peaks were white with fresh snow. It was so pretty. We could have stayed up there all day, but we had family coming into town so we hurried down.

We considered this another “backyard” hike. We’ll try to do it around the 1^st of October each year when the fall colors are near their peak.

   

Hike route to Windy Pass  /  Fresh snow midway up the trail

   

View west from the top of Windy Pass  /  About half of the aspens had turned gold at the top, elevation 10,000 feet

A great view of the East Fork drainage and southern San Juan Mountains from Windy Pass

On 25 and 26 September we hung out with my parents…

My parents arrived from Castle Rock while we were still on the Windy Pass trail.  We met them at the campground, exchanged hardy hugs, and went out for dinner.

The following morning we had a good breakfast and headed out to our property.  It was fun to share our excitement and visions with my parents.  They could see why we decided to buy the property. 

Next we went out to Williams Creek Reservoir.  Again, they could see our passion and excitement as we stood on the scenic lake’s shores surrounded by hike peaks and golden aspens.  We gushed about the fishing, nearby trails, kayaking, and wildlife.  It’s still hard to believe that this beautiful area is our new “back yard”!

Williams Creek Reservoir

To end the fun day, we beat them at Pinochle, and said good night.

My mom suggested that we have a picnic the following day.  We knew just the place:  Lobo Pass overlook!  We went to Old Town Market to get big ole fresh made sandwiches and a few other goodies and headed up to the pass.

The weather at the 11,800 foot high overlook was nearly perfect!  We spread a cloth across the table and laid out our bounty.  It was a fantastic environment to enjoy yummy food, each other’s company, and God’s creation.  We felt like we were on top of the world!

A picnic with my parents at the Lobo Pass overlook, elevation 11,800 feet

We stopped at the West Fork Valley overlook on the way down.  The dramatic glacially carved San Juan Valley was spread in a perfect “U” below us.  Splotches of yellow aspens dotted mountainsides all around.  And, we admired all of this from crazy shaped volcanic cliffs.  The San Juan Mountains are spectacular!

   

The West Fork Valley overlook along highway 160

Our final stop was Treasure Falls.  The cascade plunges 105 feet from a vertical volcanic rock shelf.  We learned that the area is still geologically active.  A large landslide occurred in 1985 that blocked the highway.  We hiked the fairly tough one mile loop and admired the pretty falls up close.

                                            

My parents at Treasure Falls

After dinner, my parents beat us in Pinochle.  We said goodbye the following morning.  It was a very nice visit!

On 27 September we hiked a little of the Williams Creek trail…

We had another day with an afternoon appointment that limited our adventure time. We wanted to do reconnaissance on the three trails that are in the Williams Creek Reservoir area since they will be in our future backyard.

First, we drove three miles past the lake to the Williams Creek trailhead. We hiked up the rocky trail a few miles. Unfortunately, we did not get the valley view that we had hoped for. Neither did we see the waterfalls that we had noticed on Google satellite. But we could hear them.

On the plus side, we had a good view of an unnamed crag that I declared is “Arleen Mountain”. Also, we saw many volcanic columns that have been exposed by erosion and time.

On the way out, we noted where the trailhead was for Cimarrona Peak. We will be back for that one.

We also drove around to the trailhead for Poison Park. From here someday, we will do backpacking trips into the Weminuche Wilderness and to a number of high country mountain lakes.

Six weeks in this area was not nearly enough to explore all of the possibilities.

   

Hike route up the Williams Creek trail

Williams Creek is way below us.  This is the best view along the first 1.5 miles of trail.

On 28 September we tried to conquer Montezuma Peak…

We had seen Montezuma Peak from various angles. When I was doing research on Crater Lake, I realized that Arleen and I might be able to handle the 13,150 foot high peak. I set aside two days, one day to conquer Montezuma and the next to check out Crater Lake. An incoming weather system made the second day too difficult for a high terrain hike.

It was a 60 mile, one and a half hour drive to get to the trailhead. First, we had to take Hwy 160 east over Wolf Creek Pass for 35 miles. Then we followed Forest Road 380 and 243 over Elwood Pass for 25 miles, finally parking at the Crater Lake Trailhead. We were already at 11,600 feet.

Most of the route was along another portion of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). The trail started in a dead spruce forest. We always pause and curse the destruction of the bark beetle. After a half mile, we were above timberline and hiking steadily up onto an expansive alpine tundra area with views in every direction! Again, we felt like we were walking across the top of the world.

After two miles we saw the route that dropped to Crater Lake, but we turned south towards our goal. We saw an overlook at the saddle between Long Trek Mountain and Montezuma Peak. We rushed over to take a break and to see if we could see the lake. Yes! There was shimmering Crater Lake 1,500 feet below us. We got the binoculars for a closer look at what appeared out be a raft? On closer inspection, we verified that it was a pontoon raft. We decided it was a serious fisherman who had drug it across the challenging route. Or was it?

From here we went “free stylin'” cross country to the base of Montezuma Peak. Arleen paused to gather her energy for the final assault. We made it to 12,850 feet before we decided it was too steep and rocky to continue. Our adrenaline risk taking days are behind us!

I waited for Arleen to catch up and we admired the epic view together. We could see Blackhead Peak to the west that we had climbed the previous week. We could see over to Summit Peak, at 13,300 feet, it’s the highest point in the South San Juan range. It is also the highest point in Archuleta County, our new home county. When we return we will try to tackle it.

We started hiking back along the rim to get a better view of Crater Lake. Then I heard something strange. Arleen said, “Hi! I haven’t seen you since Alaska”. I turned to see who she was talking to and saw a few small birds. As I turned back to look at the path I was taking, I almost stepped on a well camouflaged White Tailed Ptarmigan. Now I knew what Arleen meant!

I followed a few birds over to a snow bank. The snow bank wasn’t very big consisting of snow a couple of days old. It looked fresh till some 20 odd ptarmigan began rolling and reveling in it. They were comical as they sometimes slid for a ways before popping up and shaking themselves off. Arleen theorized that they were in the process of trading their summer feathers for their winter ones. The weather was also a bit warm so maybe the snow was refreshing too.

Arleen and I were mesmerized and watched, filmed, and took pictures of them for almost an hour. They soon became accustomed to our presence. As long as we were still, they did not consider us a threat. If we moved, one of them would sound a low vibrating type of alert and they would all freeze, their idea of defense. From our perspective, it was effective. In their half white, half grey/brown plumage they blended nearly perfectly with the tundra and rocks.

We reluctantly left them behind and continued our trek back across the tundra. As we did, other birds, Golden Eagles and Red-tailed Hawks, escorted us and entertained us with their swoops and dives as they hunted.  It’s really a site to them soaring at 13,000 feet!

We arrived back at the truck just as a forest ranger was also exiting the trail. We chatted with her for a while and found out that the pontoon and tents at Crater Lake belonged to a research team. It was four grad students from Arizona that were getting core samples and documenting other readings from the lake. The ranger had hiked to the lake to let the team know she was bringing in pack horses the next morning to extract them before a weather system hit.

We looked forward to returning the next day to hike down to Crater Lake. But, as expected, the weather system ushered in rain, snow, and gusty winds. It was another reminder that winter is around the corner.

   

Hike route to Montezuma Peak  /  We watched 20 ptarmigan for about an hour

Headed up the Crater Lake trail to the Continental Divide Trail

Looking down the route to Crater Lake towards Pagosa Peak

Walking across the top of the world on the Continental Divide Trail, elevation ~12,400 feet

Crater Lake was 1,500 feet below us

Our turnaround point on Montezuma Peak’s east shoulder, elevation 12,850 feet.  There was still 300 feet of steep rocky climbing to the top.

View of Blackhead and Nipple Peaks from Montezuma’s east shoulder.  The Continental Divide Trail can be seen on the right.

Taking a break on Montezuma’s north shoulder, elevation 12,750 feet

   

See the five ptarmigan?  /  Ptarmigan are one of few the birds with feathered feet

   

We saw eagles and hawks soaring above us at 13,000 feet  /  A family of four marmots.  It’s the latest and highest (12,000 feet) that we have seen them.  They are usually hibernating by this time.

On 30 September we hiked the Ice Caves loop…

We returned to Piedra River Bridge to do another hike. Our first trip here, we had taken a left down to the river trail. This time we took a right to do the Ice Caves Trail which we hoped we could turn into a loop hike.

The trail immediately pitched up and we found ourselves first in a small aspen grove and then a mixed coniferous forest. In the forest we saw Ponderosa, Douglas, White Fir, Engelmann and Blue Spruce.

Near the top of the ridge we saw the fissures that give the loop its name. “The fissures on the side of the ridge contain snow deposited through the winter, protected from the sun. After melting and compressing, the ice remains in the fissures as late as the end of June.” And this happens at a relatively low elevation of 8,000 feet. We could not see the bottom of some of the fissures. We will return with a flashlight and during the winter next time. Some of the fissures were a couple hundred feet long and just a few wide. Be careful walking around here!

We continued to ascend. The trail climbed a total of 600 feet and was a good workout. Finally, at the top we had awesome views of the Williams Creek drainage, and then the Piedra River hundreds of feet below us. We walked out to a few rocky points and almost felt like birds soaring high over the valley. After we rounded the southern point, Pagosa Peak loomed ahead. It was very pretty.

We circled back to the north on the rim till we came to a trail that led down to the river trail. We were very happy to have found another short “backyard” loop hike.

We look forward to living nearby and returning to snowshoe this route during the winter.

             

The Ice Caves hike loop  /  These narrow deep fissures hold snow and ice well into June

The view up the Williams Creek valley towards the San Juan Mountains

It’s a long ways down to Williams Creek.  The Piedra River is in the center.

Arleen is happy to be high above the Piedra River

The Piedra River is hundreds of feet below and Pagosa Peak looms high above

On 1 and 2 October we hung out with my Uncle, Cousin, and his family…

My Uncle Skip and cousins DJ, Heather, and their children, Kyllian and Ashlynn were able to leave behind their busy lives for a weekend to come visit us.

On their first day, we drove them by our property. Then we headed out to our backyard lake, Williams Creek Reservoir, with the kayaks. Eight year old Kyllian was very excited to try kayaking.

Arleen gave him a quick kayak lesson and firmly secured him in his life vest. He did great and they paddled around for a mile before she returned to take Heather out for a spin. Arleen and Heather headed to the east shore to look for the Ospreys. DJ only went for a short spin.

In the meantime, Uncle Skip got his chair out, relaxed, and enjoyed the view and his cigar.

Kyllian was ready to go again. So he and I paddled down to the inlet. He did great and even paddled up river a ways while I fished. I hooked a couple of rainbows and brookies on size 16 hares ears. The biggest was an 18 inch long rainbow trout that put up a great fight.

   

Ashlynn, Skip, Heather, & DJ at Williams Creek Reservoir  /  Skip & Kyllian with Cimarrona Peak looming above

   

Heather, me, and Kyllian kayaking Williams Creek Reservoir

   

We kept an 18 inch long rainbow trout for dinner  /  Kyllian helped be clean the trout

The next day we drove up to Piedra Falls. This time the aspen groves along the route were all dressed up in their vibrant yellow and orange. Heather kept very busy taking numerous drive-by pictures.

At the falls, Arleen and I hiked up with the family while Uncle Skip set up his chair by the creek, relaxed, and enjoyed the scenery and his cigar.

We paused numerous times on the way to the falls to capture images of the scenery. Once at the falls, the kids played in the creek.

   

DJ, Heather, Kyllian, and Ashlynn headed up to Piedra Falls  /  DJ, Skip, and me by the East Fork Piedra River

                     

Posing at Piedra Falls

On our drive back to town, we stopped at an overlook and Kyllian and Ashlynn helped Arleen find a geocache. Kyllian will always remember the first time we took him geocaching last year.

We were very happy to see Uncle Skip, DJ and Heather and their children. Hopefully they headed home with recharged bodies and minds, and some great memories.

New friends…

We leave Pagosa Springs reluctantly. A lot changed in the six weeks we were here. However, we depart knowing that it will be our future home. And when we return, we will already know a number a people that we now count as friends. First, there are our neighbors Craig and Nancy, Brian and Arlie, and Sandra.

During our stay we met up with fellow Northwood RV Owners Association (NROA) members, John and Mary. We had a great lunch and the next time we meet up, we plan to do a hike. We also met their son Shane, who lives in Pagosa.

Finally, but certainly not last, is our realtor and friend Pam Barsanti. We are thankful to her for making our property purchase a seamless process. We look forward to seeing her again when we return to Pagosa Springs.

New friends John and Mary at Kipps Grill in Pagosa Springs

Next…

We are currently at Navajo State Park NM.  Our next stops are Monument Valley AZ/UT, Lake Powell near Page AZ, Lees Ferry AZ, and Zion National Park UT.

Parting shots…

   

A small snake swimming in Williams Creek Reservoir  /  This house was near the entrance to the campground.  We liked seeing the geese and goats every day.

Fall colors along the Piedra River back-dropped by the San Juan Mountains

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