Mud-on-the-tires Full-time RV Adventure: AZ -- Lake Powell, 12-20 October 2016

Eight days playing at Lake Powell, Arizona and Utah…

Why we came…

To kayak Lake Powell.

Entering Glen Canyon National Recreation Area near Page, Arizona

The campground…

Wahweap RV and Campground is really nice. The full hook-up sites are all paved and accessed by paved roads. The sites are also quite big and have plenty of space between neighbors. Some of the sites even have great views of the lake. Each loop has nice bathroom and shower facilities that are well maintained. Laundry facilities are also well maintained and among the least expensive we’ve encountered. We had a strong Verizon 4G cell phone signal. Wi-fi was weak in our campsite but very good around the campground office and convenience store. The campground is fairly expensive and has a pretty high turnover. RV license plates were from all over the country and there were quite a few rentals. We were very comfortable and would gladly return!

Wahweap Campground and Marina at Lake Powell

Nearby towns…

Page, Arizona, population 7,247 and elevation 4,118 feet, offers about 30 restaurants, a big Walmart, a nice Safeway grocery store, and other services. It is conveniently located less than 10 miles south of the Wahweap campground.

Adventures…

Note: Lake Powell is huge and is the main part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. It is the second largest reservoir in the U.S. It stretches almost 100 miles to the northeast where the Dirty Devil and Colorado Rivers drain into the lake. And it is over 60 miles to where the San Juan River enters to the east. During our adventures we only saw a small portion of the spectacular area.

13-15 October we explored Lone Rock Bay…

We had not kayak-camped in six years. We wanted to do two trips on Lake Powell. So, for the first trip, I planned one where if we forgot something, we could paddle back to the truck.

We set out for a three day, two night adventure. We parked the truck at the Lone Rock beach campground. We loaded the kayaks up and paddled around the impressive Lone Rock. It was a good half mile paddle around the rock that rises 300 to 400 feet out of the lake, depending on water level.

From there we paddled into Lone Rock Bay to the west of the monolith. I had marked a few waypoints for potential camping spots. I was shocked when I checked and saw that we had already paddled past the spots. Thankfully, Arleen noticed a small beach area along the east arm of the canyon.

We beached the kayaks in the soft white sand. Then we investigated the smooth ridge. It is so easy to wander around on the slick rock… As long as it is dry… We agreed the perfect spot for the “kitchen” was on the highest point with a 360^o view. We selected a flattish spot for the “bedroom” and set up the tent.

We hopped in the kayaks to go back and check out the camp sites we had missed on the way in. We paddled back a mile and wandered into the next cove till we found a sandy spot to beach the kayaks. We then hiked to the top of the 400 foot high slick rock mesa and back to the west till we had a good view of our camping site. Also, from this height we had a great view of Lone Rock and the entire bay.

I left Arleen on the mesa and paddled back to our camp site so she could get pictures of me there. As soon as she was done taking pictures, she disappeared from view as she headed back to her kayak.

Suddenly to the north on the mesa I spotted a herd of 10 to 15 Desert Bighorn Sheep. I quickly started trying to capture pictures of them. Just then Arleen appeared 200 yards away from them. I pointed the sheep out to her. Then they started moving toward her!

Arleen sat down and tried to remain still. We realized the sheep were trying to make their way down to the water. The noisy boats in the bay made them very skittish.

One older ewe did not let anything faze her. “Grandma” bravely made her way to the water while the other sheep, including the ram stayed up on the mesa. When “Grandma” returned after quenching her thirst, the herd disappeared to the east.

Arleen paddled back while I prepared dinner. Then as we were sharing dinner from atop our rock and appreciating the view, we saw the sheep herd again. This time they were at the end of the canyon. As the sun set we watched them tentatively make their way down to the water to finally get a good drink of water.

It was a beautiful sunset. Not only were the colors incredible, but a full moon emerged to the east. In addition, we had the entire bay to ourselves. No one else was camped in the area that night.

Kayak route from Lone Rock Beach to the Lone Rock Bay and then hike route near the bay / View from the tent

Kayaking around Lone Rock / Kayaking in Lone Rock Bay

Lone Rock Bay and our campsite. That’s me in the kayak. (Click on picture for more detail.)

Our sweet camp spot in Lone Rock Bay

Hiking the slick rock around Lone Rock Bay. Our kayaks are “parked” on the point.

Hiking the slick rock around Lone Rock Bay

Me kayaking back to our campsite

Arleen spotted desert bighorn sheep headed her way / Here they come

The big ram was headed to the water and spotted Arleen

My view of the bighorn sheep from our camp. (Click the picture for a better view)

Arleen kayaking back to our camp

The sheep got a drink while we ate dinner

We had a big bright moon each night…it was great!

And we were treated to beautiful sunrises and sunsets

The next morning we set off to explore our neighborhood. First, we cruised up the left arm. We paddled past a family that had set up a huge houseboat and a motor boat across from our rock.

Then, I spotted some splashing in one of the small coves. It was striped bass feeding on a bait ball! Arleen and I fished the area for well over an hour and we hooked three to six pound bass on nearly every cast. It did not matter what lure we threw at them. They were aggressively feeding and it was a blast!

As we paddled back out, we passed a group of twelve teenaged boys who were setting up camp on a nice beach at the end of the arm. They would provide us with entertainment for the next day with their antics of cliff diving and kayak rock sliding.

Next, we made our way up the right arm, the main canyon. As we paddled along, the walls grew taller and narrowed. We continued to wind around and noted the Swiss cheese-like formations. We stopped when the canyon became clogged with debris and could barely turn around in the tight space.

So we headed back to our camp site. From there, we hiked up on our mesa, overlooking the slot canyon. Then, for the third time, we spotted the sheep herd. We tried to remain still, but they had already noted our position and took off.

We took a refreshing swim in Lake Powell after our warm hike. The 70 degree water only felt cool for the first few seconds.

That evening, the sunset was very pretty again. We shared the bay this evening but the houseboat was quiet and the boys were either worn out or too far away for us to hear them. It was peaceful and we appreciated our piece of paradise.

We paddled back the next morning, thankful for the special weekend. We forgot a few minor things, but were looking forward to a more remote trip in just two days!

Day 2…Kayak and hike route around Lone Rock Bay and Canyon / Great blue heron

First we fished and caught a bunch of striped bass in this spot

3-6 pound striped bass hit on nearly every cast!

Kayaking into Lone Rock Canyon

Kayaking further into Lone Rock Canyon

Lone Rock Canyon, where we just kayaked!

The desert bighorn sheep are back

Hiking above Lone Rock Canyon / Posing over Lone Rock Bay

See me sitting at our campsite?

That’s Arleen walking back to our camp / It was nice to rinse off in the lake

Me fishing the point as the sun set

One more picture before we paddle home

On 17-19 October we explored Labyrinth Bay and Canyon…

It was time for the climax of our Lake Powell adventure: a three day, two night adventure exploring Labyrinth Bay and Canyon.

I arranged a taxi boat service through a marina concessioner. We loaded our kayaks and gear on the boat at Antelope Marina and traveled twelve miles northeast to Labyrinth Bay.

During the ride, we could see a difference in rock colors of the Colorado Plateau from where we were at Lone Rock. Both areas have arches, alcoves, and glens that are formed from the Glen Canyon Group and on top of that the San Rafael Group. However, the slick rock in the Lone Rock area is whitish to yellow colored with a few reddish stripes. But from Antelope Point to Labyrinth, a light reddish brown was the dominant color.

Ryan, our boat captain pointed out landmarks for us. He then left it up to us where we wanted to be dropped off. We selected a cove near the mouth of Labyrinth Bay. We left our gear on the beach and hopped in our kayaks to scope out potential camp spots.

We paddled up the canyon and took a right at the first divide. Without a guide or clear directions, we often feel like early explorers finding our way. There was one giant house boat at the mouth of the canyon but other than that, we were completely alone.

The arm soon petered out into a slot canyon that did not have room to beach the kayaks, even though we wanted explore further. Then we retraced our way to the first position, and paddled up the left arm. Now, we spotted the Hidden Canyon Kayak guide boat. We had met Joe, the owner, the day before. Joe is very friendly and gave us great advice.

We parked next to Joe’s boat and took off hiking across the slick rock. We headed south trying to get a good look into the narrowing Labyrinth Canyon from above. It is easy to climb a few hundred feet up and then spot an even better overlook and take off again. Options are limitless when traversing slick rock country!

When we paddled back to the mouth, the wind was blowing 20 to 30 miles per hour. We decided against trying to load the kayaks with gear and fighting the swells around the point. It would be asking for trouble. The houseboat had left. Joe had left. We were completely by ourselves with only the distant sound of boat traffic far out in the main channel.

We set camp up on the backside of a slick rock ridge where we were sheltered from the strong northerly winds. At the same time, we had a wonderful view of the lake and the caramel colored buttes to the east.

As we settled in the tent, the moon came out to brighten up our world. We could see bats flitting around in the light. We had a restless night due to the wind, dropping temperature, and spotlight-like moon. We were just thankful that it was dry.

Day 1: Kayak and hike route around Labyrinth Bay and Canyon / The patterns in the sandstone are incredible

We love exploring the petrified sand dunes!

More cool patterns in the slick rock

Popping out on top

A good place to sit above Labyrinth Bay and Lake Powell

A great view of Lake Powell

Looking up Labyrinth Canyon

Hiking along the rim of Labyrinth Canyon

Fellow kayakers exploring Labyrinth Canyon

Arleen kayaking back to our camp / “I want to go in there!” A side canyon.

The next morning, we moved the kitchen up to the highest spot, where we had an amazing view. Then I went out and fished for an hour or so. At the back of the main cove, I hooked average-sized striped bass on my first four or five casts, and then the bass scattered or got lock-jaw. Next I paddled out to the point to pose for Arleen’s pictures and hooked one more. The weather was perfect, the water flat, and the fishing fun…a great morning!

We ate a hearty breakfast of oatmeal and were ready for our big adventure: a hike deep into Labyrinth Canyon.

We paddled up the canyon and were amazed at the towering walls and narrowing channel. Shortly after the water clarity decreased, our paddles starting hitting bottom and a small beach emerged. We parked the kayaks, grabbed our day packs, and continued on foot. We got there just as Joe and his two clients were leaving…Perfect timing!

We entered the slot canyon and it continued to narrow. We hiked through the tight sculpted slot for about a mile and stopped many times to attempt to capture the beauty with our cameras. We constantly marveled at the design the water had carved in the sandstone layers.

The canyon progressively narrowed till it was no more than two feet wide. At times we had to turn sideways through some of the twists. Initially we walked on sand, and then small rocks, then boulders, and finally choke stones…it was time to turn around.

As we retraced our steps, we marveled at the fact that we had the spectacular slot canyon to ourselves. The parking lot at Antelope Canyon always seemed packed. Hundreds of people pay a lot of money to be guided through it every day. Yet, we had a similar place to ourselves. It just required a little planning and a sense of adventure.

We did cross the paths of a few motor boats and jet skis on the way out. A few slowed for our passage but others maintained their speed, creating a bathtub affect for us in the narrow chasm. Not only do the inconsiderate boaters create dangerous conditions, but it’s against the law to make a wake within 150 feet of canyon walls and non-motorized watercraft!

Again, that night, we had Labyrinth Bay to ourselves. Before eating dinner, we both took a refreshing bath in the cool lake. It was a good ending to a great day.

We had arranged a mid-day pick up. So we had the next morning to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, to fish, and to hike. We packed everything up, dragged it down to the beach, and waited for our water taxi ride back to the marina.

Our Labyrinth Canyon adventure made us crave more. Next time we hope to go to Face Canyon, even more remote, one channel further to the east.

Day 2: Kayak and hike route in Labyrinth Canyon / Our kayaks beached at the mouth of Labyrinth Canyon

I headed out early and caught a few striped bass

Kayaking into Labyrinth Canyon

Stopping at a side canyon

On foot in Labyrinth Canyon. The walls are closing in!

Labyrinth Canyon is incredible!

Posing in Labyrinth Canyon

Kayaking back to the mouth of Labyrinth Canyon

Celebrating a great day exploring Labyrinth Canyon

It felt great to rinse off in Lake Powell

About to eat a well-earned dinner

The final morning at our camp spot in Labyrinth Bay

Next…

We spent six days exploring the Colorado River below Glen Canyon Dam and are currently in Virgin, Utah near Zion National Park. Our next stop is Heber City UT, where we will spend the winter.

Parting shots…