Millions of people visit Hoover Dam and play at Lake Mead every year. As we crested the hill in Boulder City and got our first glimpse of the huge shimmering blue lake surrounded by rugged desert mountains, we could see why. The campground was like an oasis with palm trees and great views of the lake. We had all amenities and were very comfortable during our first two weeks here. In fact, we won’t want to leave!
View from our front door View from our back window
We went to both the Lake Mead and Nevada Visitor centers to get ourselves educated about the area. We learned that the fishing on Lake Mead, the Colorado River, and Lake Mojave can be very good and that all three are popular with kayakers. We also learned that the 34 mile River Mountains Loop Trail was paved and would be a great bike ride that we could access from our front door. We learned that there are some great hiking trails and that one of the world’s greatest engineering marvels, Hoover Dam, was almost in our backyard. And we narrowed our Vegas wish list to just a few things. Boulder City was a very nice town, just 5 miles from our home where we could easily resupply. If Boulder City didn’t have what we needed, then Henderson or Las Vegas certainly would. As we explored, learned more, and watched the sky turn brilliant colors to start and end each day, we knew Lake Mead was great for us!
Where to begin? First we hiked the historic Railroad Trail to Hoover Dam. The route was a primary supply line for building Hoover Dam. We walked through five tunnels that were made big to accommodate large items needed to build the dam. We enjoyed the views of Lake Mead along most of the route and were blown away by our first glimpse of Hoover Dam. This was a great way to start our Lake Mead adventure!
We realized that the last time we rode our bikes was in Redwood NP in early December. Now that we had easy access to an outstanding 34 mile bike path and the weather was great, it was time to ride! Things started well as we snaked along Lake Mead with short ups and downs and many easy to negotiate turns. It was a lot of fun! Then we started to leave the lake behind and headed towards Vegas. The hills got stinking steep…whew! We got our first look at the Vegas sky line and thought the trail would level out…wrong…it continued to slowly climb for the next 10 miles!! About mid way, near Henderson, there was a “rest stop” with picnic tables and a water fountain. It was a welcomed and much needed break, but it wasn’t enough for our tired legs and butts. Then the trail slowly climbed another 5 miles to Boulder City…enough all ready! We topped at 2600 feet just 5 or 6 miles from home which was at 1200 feet…Yay, 1400 feet of down hill! We really were looking forward to the downhill ride that we earned, but we couldn’t “turn it loose”. A good chunk of the downhill was down a storm drain which was tricky riding…we had to be careful. Finally, the last 3 miles or so, we zipped along effortlessly at 25mph and felt like kids! It was a great bike ride, but kicked our butts. Speaking of butts, they were sore for the next 3 days!
We’re gluttons! The following day we did two more hikes. The first was along the Las Vegas Wash. The wash flows from Lake Las Vegas and is often dry. During our hike it was full bank to bank and flowing fast. The multicolored bluffs were spectacular. We got back home and owed our 4-legged friend a long walk so we made him happy. We had many short walk options that we enjoyed. We could do long loops around the campground or we could loop down towards the lake or we could walk the River Mountains Loop trail either way as far we wanted.
The Las Vegas Wash and colorful bluffs
The weather was perfect and it was time to get on the water! We launched the kayaks near the marina and paddled out to the Boulder Islands. The view from the shimmering blue water was even more spectacular. I fished for striped bass and didn’t get any bites. As we paddled back across the channel, the winds started to pick up. By the time we got to shore, the placid waters were white-capping and the winds were gusting to 30mph. We got off the water just in time. We could have handled it, but it would not have been fun. Kayaking, like many outdoors hobbies, is most enjoyable in perfect weather.
Alright, the bodies needed a break! It was time for Vegas. I searched online for New Mexico green chili and found exactly what I was looking for: Carlito’s Burritos. “Red or Green?”…jackpot…music to my ears!! Folks familiar with New Mexico cuisine know that question. It’s something you don’t hear when you leave the area and it’s something you miss. My answer is always “green and hot”. Sure enough, my chicken enchiladas were smothered in hot green chili sauce! It was so freakin’ good! They even sold frozen containers of Hatch Green Chili…I bought 4. Life is good!
Arleen and I aren’t gamblers but we do like entertainment shows. We chose a dinner show: “Marriage Can be Murder” ( http://www.marriagecanbemurder.com/ ) at the Fitzgerald Casino on Freemont Street. Freemont Street had the glitz and glamour that Vegas in known for. We could do without the busy streets, the smoking, the drinking, the gambling, and people begging for money. The city stuff is too overwhelming for us wilderness folks! Our dinner was tasty and the show made us laugh like crazy. We really enjoyed it.
The next day we toured Hoover Dam. The history, construction, and operation of this engineering wonder was very impressive and interesting.
The following day we did another hike. This one was on the other side of the Colorado River in Arizona. Initially we walked down a wash into White Rock Canyon. The canyon walls closed in and the chutes sculpted by rushing water were quite dramatic. We climbed out of the narrowing wash and headed toward Liberty Bell Arch. On the way, we passed old mine ruins…the mining cable car was pretty cool. Liberty Bell Arch was impressive especially backed by a brilliant blue sky. The trail ended on top of a cliff perched 1000 feet over the Colorado River…it was beautiful!
See Arleen?
Superbowl Sunday! It was two east coast teams so we didn’t care. Hopefully everybody else would be glued to their TVs while we played on the Colorado River. Power boats are not allowed between Willow Beach and Hoover Dam on Sundays and Mondays…perfect! That means roughly 11 miles of peaceful paddling engulfed in amazing scenery. Because of Davis Dam and Mohave Lake to the south, the Colorado River flows slow and deep through the dramatic canyon. We crawled along at about 1mph as we paddled steadily against the current and a 5-10mph head wind. Just over a mile upstream of Willow Beach we saw the site of the river gauger’s house that was built in the 1930s. The person that took the river flow readings walked about 3/4 mile along the cliffs and used two hand carts to cross the river to get to the gauge. It would have been an interesting and dangerous job. Next we explored the large but shallow Emerald Cave. To get back, we floated lazily with the current and wind. I fished but didn’t get any bites. During our 5.5 mile paddle, we only saw three other kayaks. Maybe we were right about everyone watching the Superbowl.
The rocks mid way up the cliff are the remains of the gauger’s house A hand cart to cross the river
I’m on the gauger’s catwalk in both pictures. The cave is below me in the first picture.
Click on the pictures for a better view.
The river gauge is on the right. The second hand cart is in the center of the picture.
The following day we went back to White Rock Canyon for another hike. This time we followed the dramatic slot canyon to the Colorado River, climbed up a 30 foot ladder, and cooked in the Arizona Hot Springs. It was incredible! The water was clear and odorless. The bottom of each pool was gravelly. And we were boxed in an amazing high-walled canyon.
Boxed in!
Black Canyon of the Colorado River; about 3.5 miles downstream of Hoover Dam
Climbing up to the hot springs / Getting closer… / Paradise!
The water is getting warm / Warmer yet… / Too hot for the hot tub!!
Round two in Vegas…There are “four heart-pounding thrill rides” atop the 1,149 feet high Stratosphere Hotel and Casino ( http://www.stratospherehotel.com/Tower/Rides ). One of the rides we didn’t have the nerves for, “Skyjump”. Another we didn’t have the stomachs for, “Insanity”. But we thought we could handle the other two, “X-Scream” and “Big Shot”. Big Shot launched us straight up at 4 Gs and dropped dramatically making us weightless, before shooting up and doing it again. That would be freaky enough at ground level, but when it happens a 1,000 feet above the ground, it’s freakin’ freaky! We both liked it and would have gladly shot up and down a bunch more times. However, we didn’t feel that way about X-Scream. As advertised, we sat in the front row of the “teeter-totter” and when it tipped, we launched towards the ground about 1,000 feet below. We dangled there for a moment, and then slowly went backwards to safety. Just when we thought the torture ride was over, it happened again! We had death grips on the safety bars. My palms dripped with sweat and Arleen bruised her shins from wedging them against the leg bar. My heart dam near stopped! This was sad proof that we are getting older! After our hearts slowed a bit, we dropped a level or two to the lounge and found a quiet place with a great view of the Vegas lights. We had a wonderful meal and Arleen enjoyed 2 for 1 blu-tinis.
Going to the Stratosphere / About to launch on Big Shot / Dropping off the edge on X-Scream
A thousand feet above Vegas! / Getting sloshed on blu-tinis
You can’t fake that!
Hopefully this picture makes you laugh as much as it does us!
River Mountain Loop Trail bike ride round two…This time we did it clockwise. That meant climbing from 1,200 feet to 2,700 feet in the first five miles, then a roller coaster middle portion, followed by a nice long drop, and then another roller coaster section to finish. Our bodies handled it much better and we enjoyed it much more. This trail is a great exercise route.
We went for another kayak paddle on Lake Mead. This time we headed for “Saddle Island”, only an island at high water, which hasn’t happened in awhile. We paddled 4 and a half miles and I fished for striped bass the entire time…no bites. That’s alright. Everyone I’ve spoken to has gotten skunked. The weekly fishing report also says its been slow. I’m not doubting my fishing skills just yet! The burning 70 degree heat and flat calm was almost too much for us. We had to duck into the shade a couple of times for relief. Life is tough!
WHERE WE GOT OUR MAIL
Boulder City, NV
Our plans have changed. Arleen’s mom, Ellen, must have her gall bladder removed so Arleen is leaving sunny Nevada and headed to wintery Montana to take care of her mom. While she is being a good daughter, I will continue to play. I’ve got some work to do to make sure I tangle with a striped bass or two!
The new plans have us leaving Lake Mead on 25 February and heading to Prescott AZ for 12 days. And then it’s on to Phoenix for baseball spring training!
