Nearly a month near Marathon in the middle Florida Keys…
Why we came…
To explore the Middle Keys.
The campground…
Jolly Roger RV Resort was decent. Typical of the Keys, RVs were crammed in fairly tightly with little room for tow vehicles and outdoors toys. Also typical of the Keys, it was very expensive.
We were comfortable in our spot, just a few spaces from the beautiful ocean. We barely had enough room for our truck and our neighbors bbq’d, lounged, watched TV outside, and chit-chatted just a few feet from our windows. Thankfully our neighbors were fairly quiet most of the time. There were others in the campground that weren’t so considerate.
The site was grass and chipped shell gravel. We had full hook-ups, reliable Verizon 4G cell phone, cable TV, and inconsistent wi-fi. The RV resort had a nice pool, ocean swimming area, small boat dock, fishing pier, and a boat ramp. It was great to launch our kayaks conveniently from the campground! It was also nice to swim and snorkel just a few from our front door. Laundry was barely maintained, heavily used, and cost more than 95% of the places we have stayed!
If we could stay in the same spot and with the same neighbors, we would do it again. Otherwise, it would be a no-go for a return trip.
Just a few yards from the ocean
Our spot near the water…we had a good view from our door and front windows
Marathon, population 10,255 and elevation 3 feet, is busy and congested, like most of the larger towns in the Keys. It was nice to have conveniences so close and a decent selection of restaurants.
Adventures…
On 21 December we walked the Long Bridge and had a great dinner…
The Overseas Highway, running from Miami to Key West consists of 42 overseas bridges, originally laid out in 1912. In 1982, 37 of the bridges were replaced. Some of the 1912 bridges were left erect and have been retrofitted for fishermen, walkers, and cyclists. We knew it would be too windy to kayak so we decided to check out Long Bridge which was just four miles from our campground.
The bridge is two miles long so a brisk walk across and back made for good exercise. We were buzzed by many pelicans as we walked across. We stopped and talked with a few fishermen. One guy showed us his cooler full of hogfish, snapper, and yellow tail. This got us very excited about the possibilities of fishing in the Keys and we looked forward to getting our kayaks in the water.
As we walked, we realized it was the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year. So after we walked the bridge, we drove to the world famous Islamorada Fish Company Restaurant.
We arrived shortly before sunset. As the sun sets, they feed a resident population of Tarpon. Some were as large as 150 pounds! We enjoyed a first rate fish and alligator dinner with Tiki lights burning while island music was sung by a live musician, palm trees swayed in the refreshing breeze, and the sky turned brilliant colors as the sun sank below the horizon… It was a perfect Keys experience!
We walked the two mile long, Long Key Bridge / A brown pelican
Tarpon getting fed at Worldwide Sportsman in Islamarada / A beautiful night and a great dinner!
On 22 December we kayaked and fished near our campground…
We were anxious to get out on the water! It was still breezy but the gulf side was slightly protected so we launched right at our campground.
We headed west first and reached some areas of wild mangroves. We both caught small barracudas on every other cast. They were devouring our Gulp shrimp!
The wind picked up so we followed the coast back. It was interesting as we passed by another campground that was right next to the Dolphin Research Center. We paused and watched as some of the graceful mammals jumped out of the water and showcased their athletic prowess. However, the constant loud chirps from the trainer’s whistles annoyed us both and we made a mental note to never stay at that campground.
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Kayak route near our campground / A barracuda…watch out for those teeth!
Arleen reeling a fish in / Another barracuda
On 24 December we kayaked and fished near the campground…
It was still breezy with southerly winds but the gulf side was slightly protected. So we headed out from the campground again and paddled east.
As soon as we took a few strokes, I noted triangular dark shapes emerging from the water ahead of us. Dolphins! We paddled hard to catch up with the small pod. We got within 30 feet before they noticed us, changed speed and left us far behind.
We then paddled to a series of shallow shoals running perpendicular to Long Bridge, and parallel to the current. We had hoped to wade in the shallow water and cast into the current. However, the soil was too mucky to stand in. We anchored ourselves in place for a bit, but after a while, the combination of the waves, wind, and current started to get to Shawn. He could feel motion sickness coming on, so we moved to a dredged channel coming out of a housing area and caught several barracuda.
Kayak route near our campground
A beautiful day on the “Gulf Side” of the Middle Keys
A pod of dolphins cruised by us!
On 26 December we walked a portion of the Old Seven Mile Bridge…
It was yet another windy day…a perfect opportunity to check out the Old Seven Mile Bridge and walk the 2.2 miles out to Pigeon Key! It is another original railroad bridge that has been maintained for walkers and bikers. The famous bridge has appeared in several films, including 1994 True Lies with Arnold Schwarzenegger, when the old bridge is shown being destroyed by missile strikes.
The jewel colored water was so clear we were able to spot a few sharks, turtles, and sting rays. We were visited by pelicans as we walked along. We were disappointed to find out that visitors can visit Pigeon Key from a tour boat, but since the ramp is in disrepair, walkers can no longer visit the Key itself. However, we were able to view the small island from above. Just beyond Pigeon Key, an entire section of the bridge has been removed making it the necessary turn-around point.
On the Old Seven Mile Bridge near Pigeon Key
A large sting ray swam under the bridge / Can’t walk any farther!
On 28 December we kayaked near Big Pine Key…
We launched from the north side of Big Pine Key near the Key Deer National Wildlife Refuge. The road dead ended at a small sand landing. It was a perfect launch area for kayaks and had parking for only five vehicles or so.
There were four weathered fishermen sitting in old lawn chairs at the launch area. They looked as if they had been there since Hemmingway’s days. After chatting for a while, we found out they lived on the boats that were anchored in the small harbor area. Their boats were as weathered as they were! I’ll bet that they had all kinds of interesting stories and would have gladly shared their stories with us.
We launched with a goal of making it to Mayo and Annette Keys. First, we had to cross the channel. As we inched out, it got bumpier and bumpier. We almost turned around a few times, but the water calmed once we were in shallower water and partially protected by Mayo Key.
We did not stick around long because the wind had picked up a notch and we were only catching barracuda. The trip back was even rougher. We got pretty wet as waves splashed over our kayaks. It was a relief to be back safely at the launch site.
Kayak route near Big Pine Key
The water was rough in the channel
On 29 December Shawn fished with Larry Sr and Bob…
Way back in the mid-80’s, Larry Jr was a good friend when Shawn lived in Japan and his best friend when they both moved to Hawaii. They kept in touch and we recently spent time with him in Gettysburg PA and Delaware. Larry Jr told us that his dad, Larry Sr, planned to spend New Years in Key West. Once we learned that he was going to drive right by our home near Marathon, we coordinated to get together.
Shawn met Larry Sr and his friend, Bob, at the Long Bridge to do some fishing. They shared a few of the highlights of their last 30 years while Larry caught fish. Shawn and Bob got skunked!
I was about to go for a walk when Shawn called and told me that he was coming back with four people. Two of Larry’s friends had caught up with them at the bridge.
We had a wonderful lunch on the water at Keys Fisheries and shared more stories. Then we said goodbye and sent them to the end of the road in Key West to celebrate New Years.
Larry and Bob fishing the Long Key Bridge
Larry showing off his catch / We hadn’t seen each other since the mid-80s
On 30 December we kayaked on the “Gulfside” of Curry Hammock State Park…
When Henry Flagler constructed the Overseas Railroad in 1912, he excavated several sea areas for material to connect some of the Keys.
We launched from the city boat launch and headed east catching a few blue runners along the way. Our goal was one of the Flagler holes near Curry Hammock State Park.
Most shallow areas are very difficult to stand on because of the soft bottom of deep shell deposits (you can get stuck and the sharp shell bits get into your sandals and cut your feet). But near the hole, a hard limestone shelf made a nice platform to stand on to fish the excavated channel.
We eagerly got out, stretched and cast into the crevasse wondering what might be lurking in its depths. Shawn had caught a few barracuda, snappers, and a jack, when my line took off with a “Zzzzzzzzzzz”!
I knew I had hooked something larger, but if the fish got near the limestone shelf, the leader would saw in two. I played it slowly in hopes of at least getting a peak at it.
When I finally spotted it, I immediately noticed the telltale sharp triangle of its dorsal fin. I yelled to Shawn, “It’s a shark”! He hurried over with the camera and urged me to get back in the kayak! I finally eased it out of the hole and alongside the kayak and gingerly picked it up.
The surprising thing about sharks is that they are not slippery like most fish, but feel more like fine sandpaper. She was a Bonnethead shark and they are timid and usually harmless sharks. We gently released her and she quickly swam back into the depths of the hole. Shawn fished on the way back to the pier but I relaxed and enjoyed the scenery. It would be hard to top that!
Kayak route on the “Gulfside” of Curry Hammock State Park / A blue runner
Sweet spot to fish in the shallows / Releasing a 3 foot long bonnethead shark
On 1 January we kayaked and fished near Big Torch Key…
Shawn has been studying the Florida Keys Paddling Atlas for two years. Between the book and Google Satellite, he found a potential launch site on Big Torch Key.
We got off Highway 1 at Middle Torch Key and slowly negotiated 18 more turns to Big Torch Key, where the road dead-ended. It was eerie because everywhere we had been in the Keys, it was busy, busy, and congested. The area at the end of the road was peaceful, and we only saw an occasional cyclist riding along the quiet road.
We had to carry the kayaks about 50 yards down a water logged trail with a shell and limestone bed. It was not easy…But it was so worth it!
We launched and stayed in the shallows to the right of Niles Channel and headed north into the Torch Key Mangroves. We saw just an occasional boat in the channel otherwise we were all by ourselves – on a Friday, the 1st day of 2016!
It was as we imagined the Keys had been 80 years ago. The tide was out and as we passed over the sea grass we spotted snapper, stingray, a couple of turtles, and an occasional shark.
We made a three and a half mile loop winding around nine different mangrove islands. We each caught just a few snapper, blue runners, and barracuda.
After 4 hours of paddling and fishing, the clouds were building. We knew that thunderstorms were forecast so we decided to head back. Otherwise, we could have stayed out there for days…it was so pleasant.
When we returned to the launch site, the tide was in and we paddled far up the trail. We were glad to only carry the kayaks a few feet up the tricky path. It was a great day and we vowed to return.
Kayak route near Big Torch Key / We carried our kayaks through these mangroves to launch
Keep an eye on those clouds!
Paddling around the numerous small mangrove islands was cool…we saw a few 4-6 foot long sharks!
On 2 January we kayaked and fished near Curry Hammock State Park…
Curry Hammock State Park was just five minutes up the road from our campground. We decided to check out the ocean side on a nearly perfect Saturday.
The parking lot was full of cars and the picnic area was full of people. There were a few dozen boats anchored on a shallow white sand bar about a half mile from shore.
We were curious so we launched and headed out to the popular sand bar. The water was crystal clear and beautiful. We spotted a few sting rays gracefully “flying” across the light colored sand just a foot or two below us.
Unfortunately, there was a different party and obnoxious loud music coming from each boat. It was too much of a zoo for us so we headed back into the mangroves. We spotted a small shark feeding in the sea grass and caught a few barracuda.
We paddled the long way back to check out the sand bar again. This time we went passed the boats where the ocean’s bottom dropped much further below us. The water was pristine, but a bit rough. Everyone was having a great time but it was too much commotion for us.
Kayak route near Curry Hammock State Park / Boats anchored along a sand bar and folks partied
Kayaking across a sand bar
A sting ray and a shark
Fishing a beautiful sand bar
On 3 January we kayaked and fished near Curry Hammock State Park again…
We returned to Curry Hammock State Park the next day and it was a different world. It was a Sunday, but 10 degrees cooler with cloudy skies. There was only one family in the picnic area and there were no boats anchored out on the sand bar.
We made our way back to the mangrove area and played with a few barracudas when we saw a few large raindrops plopping on the water. We looked up to see a black line of clouds with the area beneath them totally shrouded by a rain shaft.
We started paddling back but it was too late. Over the next hour, TWO inches of rain fell. The wind was nearly calm and the deluge was almost peaceful. It was a warm rain but we were a little chilled in our soaked clothes.
As we approached the launch, Shawn continued to fish while I climbed out to the cover of a picnic area to capture the event. The shower passed, the veil lifted, and the sun shined brightly. The weather was nearly perfect for the next couple of hours.
I joined Shawn and we fished the empty boat channel. It was like the shower woke the fish up! We caught snapper, lady fish, and blue runners. We could see another line of showers approaching, so we called it a day…a very good day.
Kayak route near Curry Hammock State Park
A ballyhoo caught in a deluge…thankfully there were no winds!
On 7 January we paddled at sunset…
We had a series of weather fronts, heavy rain, and winds that kept us off the water for four days. We were restless. Finally, the weather cleared and the ocean went smooth, so we decided to go for a sunset paddle.
We launched from the campground, and as we headed out, we spotted a pod of 15-20 dolphins. Shawn rushed out ahead of a family of five, stopped paddling, and enjoyed a special moment when they swam within 15 feet of him. We followed them for a while till they dove, kicked into another gear and left us far behind.
We fished for a bit as the sun sank slowly over the ocean’s horizon. The sky, clouds, and water turned brilliant colors as we were treated to a magnificent Florida Keys sunset.
Sunset kayak route near the campground
A pod of dolphins swam within 15 feet of Shawn!
The water is smooth and the weather is perfect
A spectacular Florida Keys sunset…life is great!
On 9 January we kayaked near Big Torch Key…
We woke up excited on Saturday morning. The weather looked great for another adventure near Big Torch Key…our favorite!
This time we were going out even further north. We planned to fish our way around a six mile loop that would take us about five hours.
As we approached the first mangrove key, we could see a few large black birds. They were Magnificent Frigatebirds! Frigates are rarely seen inland and often only seen soaring above water. And here were four posing near the top of a mangrove for us!
Then we headed more north and came to a large seagrass flat with snappers too numerous to count. There were thousands, but they were mostly small hand-sized fish. We were interested in finding their parents.
At the first mangrove island, we caught barracudas nearly every cast. A few almost jumped into our kayaks. At the second mangrove, we found the snapper parents. We each landed several two to three pounders...they put up strong fights.
I heard a loud “Woop” from Shawn and looked over to see a lot of churning water and his kayak spinning around. He had hooked a five foot long shark! The fight did not last long but it was exciting! That gave Shawn an idea. He had one last area in mind. The area was known to harbor sharks and occasionally redfish.
We paddled to a shallow cove near the north side of Big Torch Key and fished along the mangroves. Unfortunately, we did not see another shark or hook another fish.
The wind and waves had picked up. The two mile paddle back was tough, but it had been a good day.
Kayak route near Big Torch Key / Frigate birds in the tree and a brown pelican flying towards us
A fantastic day on the water!
Arleen with a nice snapper
On 11 January we walked around Key West…
It was going to be another blustery day so kayaking wasn’t an option. We headed for Key West to do a walking tour of the popular tourist town.
First, we stopped at the Hogfish Bar and Grill. It had been featured on the Travel Channel’s Man V. Food Nation and looked quite appealing. I had the “Killer” Hogfish sandwich and it was as good as Adam had described it on the show.
Next, we ventured into downtown Key West. I had researched on Google satellite where to park our big truck, and it’s a good thing that I did. All the streets were narrow and packed.
Shawn immediately headed for the pier. I snapped the obligatory picture of him next to the Marlin that hangs at the entrance to the Harbor Walk.
We wandered into the Dry Tortugas Museum and vowed we would return some day to camp out there. We wound around the harbor for a few hours checking out the fishing boats, sleek schooners, and large private luxury yachts. It was all very entertaining but too busy for Shawn. We cut our time short before we reached the southern most point and headed home.
Getting kissed by a hogfish at the Hogfish Bar and Grill / My fantasy catch in Key West
Scenes along the Key West Harbor Walk
On 13 January we toured the Sea Turtle Hospital in Marathon…
So what do you do on vehicle service day? If you hang out with Shawn, you end up on an unexpected adventure.
First, we dropped off the truck for service and then walked over to a local cafe for a unique Cuban breakfast. Finally, we walked to the Turtle Hospital! It is “a small non-profit organization dedicated to the rehabilitation of endangered sea turtles”. They are a “fully functioning veterinary hospital for sick and injured sea turtles. They rescue, rehab, and release sea turtles in the Florida Keys”.
We arrived just in time for the first tour of the day. The turtles sometimes end up in the hospital after being hit by a boat propeller. The propeller does damage to the shell and air gets underneath it making it impossible for them to submerge and rest. They call it “bubble butt”. Turtles also get rescued after swallowing fish hooks and plastic bags. Plastic bags look like jelly fish which is one of their favorite foods. The hospital also treats turtles afflicted with fibropapillomatosis, an aggressive herpes-like virus that causes tumors to grow. If you find a turtle that needs rescuing, you get to name the turtle. The ultimate goal is to release them and hundreds of people cheer them on as they swim away, hopefully for good.
They have 3 or 4 turtle ambulances / Green sea turtles recovering from problems
A lone baby turtle had recently been rescued / Green sea turtle got bit by a shark / Loggerhead turtle
On 15 January we got hammered by a storm…
We expected a weather front to move through and kept our plans to a minimum. As forecast, the winds picked up and the sky darkened. We headed to the grocery store, hoping to beat the first line of showers. During the 30 minutes we shopped, it rained buckets and thunder rocked the store. Thankfully, we had worn our sandals! We waded through shin-deep water to get into our truck.
We got back home shortly before the second line of showers hit. It looked pretty intense on radar, so we settled in with anticipation of getting hammered.
The sky got black, the winds increased rapidly to 50-60mph, and rain reduced the visibility to almost nothing. The trailer was rocking and the rain that pounded our little home was nearly deafening. Waves at the end of the road were splashing hard over the break wall. It was impressive! Then a tornado warning was issued because someone spotted a water spot or tornado near Marathon. Now things were tense and we had no option but to wait it out.
Thankfully, the storm passed shortly after without getting much worse. The RVs near the break wall had water lapping at their steps and were covered in salt spray. The long-time campground visitors agreed that it was strongest storm they had ever experienced there.
By evening, the only reminders of the storm were vegetation debris and deep puddles. The weather was nice and we were treated to another pretty Florida Keys sunset.
A tornado or water spot was spotted near Marathon / 50-60mph winds, horrible visibility, churning seas
Waves crashing over the break wall
On 16 January we kayaked to Lignumvitae Key…
Shawn did not know it when he woke up, but this would be an epic fishing day for him!
We drove about 15 miles east and parked at a boat launch near the Parker-Pinder Channel. From the launch, we paddled quickly across the channel to avoid the fast and frequent boats and jet skis. Our goal was the historic Lignumvitae Key (another link)
But how could we paddle through fish rich waters without wetting our lines? We set ourselves up in a motor-free area where there were numerous crab pots and a few deep depressions. We cast into a large depression and had immediate bites.
We caught snappers, blue runners, and barracudas. Then Shawn noticed something much larger following his hooked blue runner back to his kayak…a four foot long shark! He let the blue runner swim around four feet below in the clear water. Sure enough, the shark got more aggressive, and after a minute or two, latched onto his blue runner! The kayak spun quickly and line screamed off of his reel as the shark took off in a splashy display. Just a minute into the chaotic battle, his kayak, being towed by the shark, briefly accelerated and then his line went slack. The shark’s sharp teeth had cleanly severed his meek 30 pound leader.
He repeated the process five more times: hook a small snapper or blue runner, reel it back to the kayak, let it swim around just below, watch a four foot long shark immerge and inhale the little fish, and then get spun and towed for a minute or two before the shark sawed through his leader. It was very exciting each time!
Unfortunately, the feeding frenzy stopped abruptly when the crab dude checked his pots and spun his noisy boat all over our fishing hole. With that sad end, we continued on to our objective: Lignumvitae Key.
At the landing was a really unique kayak ramp that allowed us to pull ourselves easily out of the water without getting wet.
The mosquitos swarmed, but the island was lovely. “The virgin tropical hardwood hammock that thrives on this island was once common on most of Florida's Upper Keys. Most of these forests have been lost to development on other islands. In 1919, William J. Matheson, a wealthy Miami chemist, bought this tiny island and built a caretaker's home with a windmill for electricity and a cistern for rainwater.” A knowledgeable State Park Ranger met us at the ramp, and gave us a tour of the home and the grounds. It is possible to take a tour boat from Robbie’s if you don’t have your own boat.
It was a fantastic day that included our best fishing.
Kayak route to Lignumvitae Key / A shark latched onto my fish!
Another glorious day on the water / Catching jacks are fun!
The kayak landing on Lignumvitae Key / The William J. Matheson house built around 1919
Next…
We spent two and half weeks in Key Largo and are now in Chokoloskee, on the north side of the Everglades, for nearly a month.
Parting shots…
Snorkling in the trailer?!? / Snorkling in our front yard on Christmas Day
There are lots of iguanas in the Keys
Pelicans waiting for a snack at the campground’s fish cleaning station
Pelicans fighting over fish
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