Crystal River FL
Pensacola FL
Three days in Crystal River and then nine days in Pensacola…
Crystal River…Why we came…
To kayak with manatees.
The campground…
Crystal Isles RV Resort was ok. It was filled mostly with “permanents” or “seasonals” with a lot of clutter. The short term sites were mostly on grass, had decent room, but were oriented back to back (which we don’t like). We didn’t use their facilities, but they had a swimming pool, bath house, decent looking laundry room, an activity schedule, and a few other resort type things. They made a big deal about their four pages of rules, had us sign them, took a picture of our ID and signature, and then didn’t enforce the rules (dogs not on leashes, dog poop here and there, more vehicles than allowed, multiple outside canopies, and other silly violations)! We had good cell phone and did not pay the additional fee for wi-fi. We chose Crystal Isles RV Resort for it’s location and boat launch with easy access to the Crystal River. It was peaceful, especially at night. In spite of the gripes, we were comfortable. However, it would be a coin a flip on whether or not we’d stay there again.
We are in the middle
Some of the sites are a bit rough and most are taken by “seasonals”
The boat ramp
Know the rules!
Crystal River, population 3,108, is only three or four miles from the RV park. It has a decent selection of restaurants and places to get supplies and groceries.
Homosassa Springs, population 13,791, is about 10 miles southeast of the campground. It has plenty of amenities and more RV parks.
Adventures…
On 29 February we kayaked down the Salt River…
On this morning we set off directly from the campground’s boat launch and then floated down the short canal to the Crystal River. At the river we took a left towards the ocean.
As we paddled along there were interesting sights everywhere. We had to stay river left as boats roared by in the main channel. We chatted with fellow fishermen on the Fort Island Trail County Park pier.
We paused for a break and watched some crabbers change out their pots. They had quite the audience of pelicans waiting for a treat.
Finally at the big Y in the river, we went left and down the Salt River towards the salt marsh estuary area with hopes that fish were seeking refuge in the warmer shallow waters. On the way, we passed the Marine Science Station whose mission is to, “increase student environmental literacy through hands-on laboratory and field-based educational experiences in Gulf of Mexico coastal and nearshore habitats”. We knew that their focus was middle and high school students, but it looked like good fun to us!
As we moved into the estuary area, the water cleared allowing us unlimited sight. We immediately started fishing a few oyster bars, but saw no signs of fish. We kept moving in and among the islands.
Suddenly there was a commotion of birds on the water. As we looked we saw the fin of a dolphin and we could hear it take a deep breath! As it swam, feeding, its pet flock of cormorants moved with it, feasting on the castoffs. We sat entranced and watched the dolphin for over a half hour.
We fished for a while longer. Though we did not have any hits, watching that dolphin and the accompanying cormorants made the paddle to the salt marsh worth the effort.
On our trip back up river, we sighted 10 manatees in three different pods making their way from the warm springs to the estuary and its delicious acres of sea grass. We even saw one licking the moss off of a crab pot buoy. They are fascinating critters.
Kayak route up the Salt River / A crab pot in the estuary
Checking the crab pots
No fish for us in the Salt River estuary
This dolphin put on quite show feeding aggressively in the shallow water
The dolphin had help from cormorants
We met Kevin and Jim at the Riverside Crab House for dinner…
We met my cousin, Kevin, for dinner at a local seafood restaurant, Riverside Crab House. It turned out to be a very entertaining evening with a good meal.
First of all, the Homosassa River runs right behind the restaurant and, there in the river, is a little island: Monkey Island with its own little lighthouse, boat, and tree house for five monkeys! The monkeys entertained us with their antics while we waited for our meal.
Kevin, brought his friend Jim, who had been a fellow state prison guard. They told us harrowing stories of their time working together. In addition, Jim told us stories of looking after his son who was at MLB spring training with the Baltimore Orioles. We will be following his son’s career!
Monkey Island
Sharing a good laugh with Kevin / One pound bucket of blue crab
On 1 March we kayaked up the Crystal River to see manatees…
We launched from the campground again, but this time we turned right and headed upstream on the Crystal River towards Kings Bay and the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge. The mission today was not to fish but to spend time with the manatees that are rumored to migrate up Crystal River to the warm waters of the springs.
We paddled over two miles upstream, against a steady current. We had to stay river right, again, to avoid the roaring boats in the main channel. As we approached King’s Bay, there were more houses lining both shores. The houses were nice and they each had a boat and a dock.
Once in Kings Bay, we circled the island set aside as a manatee sanctuary. On the far side of the island, we unknowingly got too close to a few manatees hanging out in the murky water. They flashed their big tails and mud spread everywhere. Unfortunately, that was most we would see of manatees all day.
The winds had picked up out of the west and the tide was coming in so we headed downstream for a difficult paddle home.
Kayak route up the Crystal River / The “Manatee Zone”
A turtle soaking up the sun / Cormorant
Pensacola…Why we came…
To see family and friends and do our last fishing in Florida.
The campground…
Oak Grove at Pensacola Naval Air Station is nice! We really liked the location. It is on a nice stretch of beach, a half mile from the Navy Aviation Museum and Pensacola Lighthouse, and a mile from the Navy’s public boat launch. It is also near the end of an active military aircraft runway. During our stay, all of the flying was during daylight hours so it was peaceful at night. In fact, it was really nice to sleep with our window open and get lulled to sleep by crashing waves. The sites were good-sized, mostly level, paved pads. We had decent wi-fi, good 4G cell phone, and satellite reception. Laundry was reasonably priced and well maintained. There was a Target, Walmart, Winn-Dixie, Naval Exchange, and Commissary within five miles. We also liked the walking path that went a mile or two in either direction of the campground. We were comfortable, liked our spot, and would gladly return!
A sweet spot at Oak Grove Campground on Pensacola Naval Air Station
Pensacola, population 51,923 and metro area 461,227, was busy for us. It’s a popular retirement area, especially for retired military folks. There are a plethora of restaurants, stores, and services. If you like water activities and beaches, it’s a great place!
Adventures…
On 4 March we walked the beach and checked out the lighthouse…
Our first adventure in Pensacola was unplanned. Shawn and I set off on a morning walk, and Shawn turned it into a spontaneous adventure. I love it when he is feeling good!
From the campground, we walked along the beach and up to the Portside Enlisted Club. As we circled back on the nature trail, Shawn suggested that we stop at the Pensacola lighthouse, built in 1859, and tackle the 177 stairs for more exercise.
We paid our $6.00 each at the door and briefly popped in the Keeper’s Quarters. We wandered around the yard and learned about pulleys, different knots, and the history of the lighthouse.
Finally, we reached the 177th step, a bit out of breath, and were treated to stunning views of Pensacola Pass (where Pensacola Bay meets the Gulf of Mexico), three forts, the Pensacola skyline and the historic Navy Yard. We took in the sights for a while before we headed back down.
We learned later that the Pensacola Lighthouse is rumored to be the most haunted lighthouse in the United States. Too bad we didn’t see any ghosts...we like making new friends!
Our boardwalk out to the beach
The Pensacola lighthouse / Learning about pulleys
Panoramic view from the lighthouse
On 5 March we did some kayaking and fishing…
We launched our kayaks from the Navy’s public marina just a mile up the road.
First, we had to paddle out of the protected lagoon. As soon as we exited we picked up the pace and safely crossed the main channel. The current was flowing which forced us to paddle harder…it was a good workout.
We maneuvered around the north end of Robertson Island and turned into a narrow channel between the island and Perdido Key. We were impressed with the high sand dunes of Robertson that obscured our view of the mainland. This channel was protected from the winds and had less current. We enjoyed the more leisurely paddle.
We immediately spotted numerous boats anchored. These were not fishermen but pleasure boats. Most of them had dingys that allowed them to set up camps on the islands or go back and forth to the marina for supplies.
We made our way to our goal: the east end of Perdido Key and the remnants of Fort Fort McRee. From here we could see the mainland and the Pensacola lighthouse. The perspective from the ocean made it obvious why the lighthouse was built there.
We were hoping that the rubble from Fort McRee would provide cover for schools of Redfish, one of our wish-list fish. We beached the kayaks and carefully walked out on the moss covered rubble.
There were a number of fishing boats anchored in Pensacola Pass and near us. We fished hard for a few hours. At one point a shadow followed my shrimp back. As it moved into the clear water, I could clearly see it was a two to three foot long Redfish. But it never grabbed the bait! We each had a few weak hits but never hooked a fish. We left disappointed, but the folks in the boats weren’t hooking much either.
We traced our way back the same way we had come. The traffic had picked up in the main boat channel. First we waited for a Coast Guard patroller to pass. He sat low in the water and pushed up a significant wake…one that we might have been able to surf! We could see the boat behind him was slowing for us, so we propelled ourselves into the wake and bucked over it. We could see three other boats headed our way behind the kind boat captain. Though the channel is only a hundred yards across, it is not a crossing for the novice or faint of heart!
Kayak route to the ruins of Fort McRee / Fishing the old fort’s rubble
Kayaking near Robertson Island
Great view of the lighthouse from near the tip of Perdido Key
On 6 March we met my step-brother at historic Fort Pickens…
Shawn had not seen his step brother, Mark, in over fifteen years. He eagerly looked forward to the reunion! We arranged to meet at the historic Fort Pickens to do their favorite pastime together: fish!
First we walked through the old fort. Fort Pickens was built after the War of 1812, completed in 1834, utilized during the Mexican-American War, occupied by the Union during the Civil War, and fortified prior to World War II. It remained in use till 1947 when it was turned over to the National Park Service. Everywhere we walked, families scrambled over the old fort reenacting long forgotten battles.
The three of us walked out on the beach to the far western point. We could just make out our little home hidden behind the beach across Pensacola Pass and tucked in the trees. Interestingly, I could have paddled to Fort Pickens in 30 minutes, but it took us over an hour to drive there.
Mark and Shawn tried their luck surf fishing for a few hours in the clear water. Mark had the catch of the day; one small, miniscule Jack. Just like the previous day, it looked slow for all of the fishermen.
After a few hours, we followed Mark back to his house to meet with his wife, Tina. They fed us a wonderful dinner and we had a good time catching up and sharing stories. Of particular interest were Tina’s stories of bug collecting with their grown children. We left with hopes of seeing them again soon before another 15 years passed.
Fort Pickens was completed in 1834 and used until 1947
Mark and I fishing Pensacola Pass
Mark caught the only fish! / Tina sharing one of their many bug collections
Visits with friends…
We had a welcome committee as we pulled into the Pensacola Navy campground. Bill and Jenn had been following our progress and found that their journey would intersect with ours. Bill, Shawn, and I are retired Air Force weather forecasters but that was not why we wanted to see them. Bill and Jenn had completed the 2,650 mile Pacific Crest Trail, from Mexico to Canada this past summer and had been traipsing literally around the world since. (Here’s the link to their great blog: https://billanders.wordpress.com/). We wanted to hear their stories first hand! We shared a great dinner and talked for hours of both of our adventures and plans for the future. One of those plans was to share an adventure somewhere down the road when our paths intersected again.
Three retired military weather folks posing with a weather sensor! Arleen and Bill worked briefly together in Afghanistan.
Shawn and I both worked for Mark in Alaska and his wife Bobbie, was one of my closest friends there. We had not seen each other in twelve years. We were thankful that they willingly met us at the campground.
As soon as they arrived, the four of us headed to the beach for a sunset walk. We had a wonderful surf and turf grilled dinner and shared stories from our mutual past and caught up on what we had been up to since Alaska. It was so good to see them again and we look forward to seeing them again someday soon.
Good friends from Alaska: Bobbie and Mark
We were all stationed together in Germany and Shawn worked for Bryan at Fort Lewis before we retired. Bryan and Karen recently settled back in Florida. We met at Sonny’s BBQ and enjoyed a yummy dinner. We had a great time swapping stories to fill the gap since we parted ways five years ago. They had a lot of good suggestions for what we could do in the local area.
My boss from Ft Lewis WA: Bryan
Next…
We spent a few days near Alabama Port AL and are now in Biloxi MS. Our next stops are Grand Isle State Park LA and then Crystal Beach TX. The migration back to the Colorado Rockies is in full swing!
Parting shots…
This pelican greeted us at the Crystal Isles’ canal / This cardinal was our camp host in Pensacola
Surf’s up around Pensacola…persistent 20-30mph winds kept us from kayaking and fishing
(98,700)
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